Chiles de agua stuffed at Mercado 20 de Noviembre ★ 4.2
The comedor counters at Mercado 20 de Noviembre stuff chiles de agua (a milder Oaxaca-only chile) with quesillo and serve them fried in a tomato-garlic broth.
Try: Chiles de agua rellenos
Chocolate de agua at Mayordomo is a street-food stop in Centro Historico, Oaxaca.
Chocolate Mayordomo's counter on Mina mills cacao on demand and pours chocolate de agua (water-mixed) into ceramic mugs with pan de yema for dunking.
Address: Francisco Javier Mina 219, Centro, 68000 Oaxaca de Juarez, Oaxaca
The comedor counters at Mercado 20 de Noviembre stuff chiles de agua (a milder Oaxaca-only chile) with quesillo and serve them fried in a tomato-garlic broth.
Try: Chiles de agua rellenos
The empanada-de-amarillo vendors at Plaza Llano fold thin masa around mole amarillo with quesillo and hierba santa, the late-afternoon Oaxacan classic.
Try: Empanada de mole amarillo
Tlayudas Libres on Calle de Los Libres is Oaxaca's canonical late-night tlayuda stand, with cooking fires on the street and tasajo, chorizo and quesillo.
Try: Tlayuda
Tlayudas Las Animas on Mariano Matamoros is the Thursday-to-Saturday-only tlayuda stand near Carmen Alto, a quieter neighbour to the Libres counter nearby.
Try: Tlayuda
Lechoncito de Oro on Calle de Los Libres is Oaxaca's most famous lechon stand, with suckling-pig tacos, tostadas and tortas with pierna or chicharron.
Try: Tacos de lechon (suckling pig)
Pasillo de Humo inside Mercado 20 de Noviembre is the smoke-alley grill where vendors over wood coals char tasajo, cecina enchilada and chorizo to order.
Try: Tasajo, cecina enchilada, chorizo
The comedor counters at Mercado 20 de Noviembre stuff chiles de agua (a milder Oaxaca-only chile) with quesillo and serve them fried in a tomato-garlic broth.
Try: Chiles de agua rellenos
The empanada-de-amarillo vendors at Plaza Llano fold thin masa around mole amarillo with quesillo and hierba santa, the late-afternoon Oaxacan classic.
Try: Empanada de mole amarillo
Tlayudas Libres on Calle de Los Libres is Oaxaca's canonical late-night tlayuda stand, with cooking fires on the street and tasajo, chorizo and quesillo.
Try: Tlayuda
Tlayudas Las Animas on Mariano Matamoros is the Thursday-to-Saturday-only tlayuda stand near Carmen Alto, a quieter neighbour to the Libres counter nearby.
Try: Tlayuda
Lechoncito de Oro on Calle de Los Libres is Oaxaca's most famous lechon stand, with suckling-pig tacos, tostadas and tortas with pierna or chicharron.
Try: Tacos de lechon (suckling pig)
Pasillo de Humo inside Mercado 20 de Noviembre is the smoke-alley grill where vendors over wood coals char tasajo, cecina enchilada and chorizo to order.
Try: Tasajo, cecina enchilada, chorizo