Latvia's national dish: large grey peas slow-cooked with cubes of fatty bacon, sour cream and onion, traditionally eaten with kefir and rye bread alongside.

Grey peas (Pisum sativum var. arvense) have been grown across Latvia since the medieval Hanseatic era and were codified as the national dish during the first independence period 1918 to 1940. The grey-pea variety thrives in Latvia's short, cool summers and sandy soils. The dish anchored peasant winter eating with its high protein content, the bacon adding fat for the long Baltic winters. Today's restaurants serve it both as a Christmas-table staple and a year-round national-identity dish.

Where to eat Pelēki zirņi ar speķi (grey peas with bacon) in Riga

5 editor picks for Pelēki zirņi ar speķi (grey peas with bacon) in Riga, ranked by editorial score. All Riga signature dishes · Pelēki zirņi ar speķi (grey peas with bacon) across every city.

Make it at home

Serves 48 hr 30 minEasy

Ingredients

  • 400g dried grey peas (Latvian Pisum sativum var. arvense)
  • 200g smoked pork belly or thick-cut bacon, cubed
  • 1 large yellow onion, finely diced
  • 1 teaspoon caraway seeds
  • 200g sour cream
  • Sea salt, black pepper
  • Rye bread and kefir, to serve

Method

  1. Soak the dried grey peas in cold water overnight (at least 8 hours), then drain and rinse.
  2. Add the peas to a heavy pot with fresh cold water to cover by 5cm. Bring to a boil, then reduce to a simmer for 60 to 90 minutes until tender but not collapsed.
  3. Render the cubed pork belly in a wide skillet over medium heat until the fat releases and the cubes crisp at the edges, about 8 minutes.
  4. Add the diced onion to the pork fat and cook until translucent, about 5 minutes. Stir in the caraway seeds.
  5. Drain the cooked peas, reserving a cup of cooking liquid. Add the peas to the skillet with the pork and onion. Stir gently to combine, adding a splash of cooking liquid if dry.
  6. Season with salt and pepper. Serve in shallow bowls topped with sour cream, with rye bread and a glass of cold kefir alongside.

Editor tip. Grey peas have a coarser texture than green peas. If they're unavailable, substitute dried marrowfat or yellow split peas, but the dish loses its national character.

Common allergens: Pork.