History

Grey peas (Pisum sativum var. arvense) have been grown across Latvia since the medieval Hanseatic era and were codified as the national dish during the first independence period 1918 to 1940. The grey-pea variety thrives in Latvia's short, cool summers and sandy soils. The dish anchored peasant winter eating with its high protein content, the bacon adding fat for the long Baltic winters. Today's restaurants serve it both as a Christmas-table staple and a year-round national-identity dish.

Common allergens: Pork

Make it at home

Yield 4Hands-on 20 minTotal 8 hr 30 minDifficulty Easy

Ingredients

  • 400g dried grey peas (Latvian Pisum sativum var. arvense)
  • 200g smoked pork belly or thick-cut bacon, cubed
  • 1 large yellow onion, finely diced
  • 1 teaspoon caraway seeds
  • 200g sour cream
  • Sea salt, black pepper
  • Rye bread and kefir, to serve

Method

  1. Soak the dried grey peas in cold water overnight (at least 8 hours), then drain and rinse.
  2. Add the peas to a heavy pot with fresh cold water to cover by 5cm. Bring to a boil, then reduce to a simmer for 60 to 90 minutes until tender but not collapsed.
  3. Render the cubed pork belly in a wide skillet over medium heat until the fat releases and the cubes crisp at the edges, about 8 minutes.
  4. Add the diced onion to the pork fat and cook until translucent, about 5 minutes. Stir in the caraway seeds.
  5. Drain the cooked peas, reserving a cup of cooking liquid. Add the peas to the skillet with the pork and onion. Stir gently to combine, adding a splash of cooking liquid if dry.
  6. Season with salt and pepper. Serve in shallow bowls topped with sour cream, with rye bread and a glass of cold kefir alongside.

Tip from the editors. Grey peas have a coarser texture than green peas. If they're unavailable, substitute dried marrowfat or yellow split peas, but the dish loses its national character.

Where to eat pelēki zirņi ar speķi (grey peas with bacon)

Pelēki zirņi ar speķi (grey peas with bacon) in Riga

Milda ★ 4.5

Traditional Latvian€€vecrigaTue-Sat 12:00-23:00; Sun 12:00-22:00; closed Mon

Milda on Grēcinieku in Old Town holds a Bib Gourmand for great-value traditional Latvian and Lithuanian cooking, named for the figure atop the Freedom.

Signature: Pelēkie zirņi ar speķi (grey peas with bacon), Pelmeni (Latvian meat dumplings), Cepelinai (Lithuanian potato dumplings)

Order: Grey peas with bacon and sour cream, the national dish, served generously.

Tip: Booked solid for Sunday lunch; weekday lunches are an easier sit. The wine list is short but well-chosen for Baltic food.

Grēcinieku iela 26, Rīga, LV-1050 Book →

Pētergailis ★ 4.2

Traditional Latvian€€vecrigaDaily 12:00-24:00

Pētergailis has worked the Old Town corner between St. John's and St. Peter's churches since 1978, cooking traditional Latvian dishes with mostly Latvian.

Signature: Pelēkie zirņi (grey peas), Roasted Latvian pork, Karbonāde

Order: The grey peas with bacon, the kitchen's anchor dish since opening.

Tip: Named for the golden rooster atop St. Peter's; the dining room is filled with a long-collected display of ceramic roosters and hens.

Skārņu iela 25, Rīga, LV-1050 Book →

LIDO Atpūtas Centrs ★ 4.0

Lithuanian€centraltirgus-maskavasMon-Thu 11:00-21:00; Fri-Sat 11:00-22:00; Sun 11:00-21:00

LIDO Atpūtas Centrs anchors Riga's budget Latvian eating, with hot-counter plates of karbonāde, grey peas and pīrāgi for under €15 in a wooden-castle complex.

Try: Latvian buffet plates

Tip: Pay by weight at the till; a full meal with a beer lands around €12 on a weekday.

Krasta iela 76, Rīga, LV-1019

Folkklubs ALA Pagrabs ★ 4.5

Lithuanian€€vecrigaMon 14:00-02:00; Tue-Thu 16:00-02:00; Fri 16:00-04:00; Sat 16:00-04:00; Sun 14:00-04:00Until Open until 04:00 Fri-Sat

Folkklubs ALA Pagrabs is Old Town's most reliable late-night cellar, 32 Latvian beer taps with folk music until 02:00 weekdays and 04:00 on weekends.

Try: Latvian beer and pub plates

Order: A late-night Latvian craft beer flight with a plate of pelēkie zirņi.

Tip: Open until 04:00 on Saturday is unusual for Riga; the cellar absorbs the post-club crowd around the Old Town.

Peldu iela 19, Rīga, LV-1050

LIDO Vērmanītis ★ 3.9

Lithuanian€centrsDaily 10:00-22:00

LIDO Vērmanītis is the central Riga branch of the buffet chain, an easier sit than the Atpūtas Centrs flagship for a quick Latvian counter lunch.

Try: Latvian counter plates

Tip: Weekday lunch service is fastest; build a plate of karbonāde, grey peas and rye for around €10.

Elizabetes iela 65, Rīga, LV-1050

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