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JapaneseKagurazaka
Kyourakutei in Tokyo's Kagurazaka holds one Michelin star for the soba-and-tempura set menu. Hand-cut Hokkaido buckwheat and a calm wooden ground-floor room.
OrderThe soba and tempura set; the duck tsukesoba in winter is the second order.
TipClosed Mondays. Lunch queues from 11:45; dinner is calmer and the tempura course adds value.
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Japanese UdonShinjuku
Udon Shin in Tokyo's Yoyogi is the much-photographed sanuki udon counter near Shinjuku Station. Hand-pulled noodles cooked to order, opens 11:00 daily.
OrderThe carbonara udon with bacon, soft-boiled egg and black pepper; curry udon in winter.
TipQueue from 11:00; midweek lunches turn fastest. Cash only at the counter.
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JapaneseMarunouchi
Rokurinsha in Tokyo Station's Ramen Street is the canonical thick-noodle tsukemen counter. Dense pork-and-fish broth, hand-cut noodles, queue from 09:00.
OrderTokusei tsukemen (special) with chashu, egg and extra noodles.
TipInside the JR Tokyo Station turnstiles in the B1 Ramen Street. Queue 30-60 minutes at peak.
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JapaneseHarajuku
Harajuku Gyozaro in Tokyo's Harajuku is the cash-only gyoza specialist on Meiji-dori. Two-item menu, pan-fried or boiled, six gyoza per plate.
OrderOne plate of yaki-gyoza, one of sui-gyoza, with a beer.
TipCash only; expect a 20-minute queue at lunch. Counter and small tables.
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Japanese YakitoriMeguro
Yakitori Omino in Tokyo's Meguro is the one-Michelin-star yakitori counter where Akihiro Omino grills jidori chicken over binchotan in a hidden basement.
OrderThe 14-skewer omakase; the tsukune meatball with quail yolk is the signature.
TipClosed Sundays. Reserve through Pocket Concierge two months ahead; dinner only.
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Japanese SushiUmegaoka
Sushi no Midori Umegaoka in Tokyo is the original branch of the value-sushi chain. Big-piece nigiri, queue-based seating, lunch sets under 2,000 yen.
OrderThe jo-nigiri set; an extra plate of anago and chu-toro brings it home.
TipClosed Wednesdays. Queue ticket machine outside; 60-90 minute waits at lunch.