Japanese¥¥kagurazaka
Kyourakutei in Tokyo's Kagurazaka holds one Michelin star for the soba-and-tempura set menu. Hand-cut Hokkaido buckwheat and a calm wooden ground-floor room.
Signature: Hand-cut soba, Vegetable and seafood tempura, Duck tsukesoba
Order: The soba and tempura set; the duck tsukesoba in winter is the second order.
Tip: Closed Mondays. Lunch queues from 11:45; dinner is calmer and the tempura course adds value.
Japanese Udon¥shinjuku
Udon Shin in Tokyo's Yoyogi is the much-photographed sanuki udon counter near Shinjuku Station. Hand-pulled noodles cooked to order, opens 11:00 daily.
Signature: Carbonara udon, Curry udon, Kake udon with grated daikon
Order: The carbonara udon with bacon, soft-boiled egg and black pepper; curry udon in winter.
Tip: Queue from 11:00; midweek lunches turn fastest. Cash only at the counter.
Japanese¥marunouchi
Rokurinsha in Tokyo Station's Ramen Street is the canonical thick-noodle tsukemen counter. Dense pork-and-fish broth, hand-cut noodles, queue from 09:00.
Signature: Tokusei tsukemen, Ajitama soft-boiled egg, Pork chashu rice on the side
Order: Tokusei tsukemen (special) with chashu, egg and extra noodles.
Tip: Inside the JR Tokyo Station turnstiles in the B1 Ramen Street. Queue 30-60 minutes at peak.
Japanese¥harajuku
Harajuku Gyozaro in Tokyo's Harajuku is the cash-only gyoza specialist on Meiji-dori. Two-item menu, pan-fried or boiled, six gyoza per plate.
Signature: Yaki-gyoza pan-fried dumplings, Sui-gyoza boiled dumplings, Pickled cabbage side
Order: One plate of yaki-gyoza, one of sui-gyoza, with a beer.
Tip: Cash only; expect a 20-minute queue at lunch. Counter and small tables.
Japanese Yakitori¥¥¥meguro
Yakitori Omino in Tokyo's Meguro is the one-Michelin-star yakitori counter where Akihiro Omino grills jidori chicken over binchotan in a hidden basement.
Signature: Tsukune meatball with raw quail yolk, Yakitori omakase course, Sansho-charred wings
Order: The 14-skewer omakase; the tsukune meatball with quail yolk is the signature.
Tip: Closed Sundays. Reserve through Pocket Concierge two months ahead; dinner only.
Japanese Sushi¥¥umegaoka
Sushi no Midori Umegaoka in Tokyo is the original branch of the value-sushi chain. Big-piece nigiri, queue-based seating, lunch sets under 2,000 yen.
Signature: Lunch jo-nigiri set, Anago saltwater eel, Chu-toro tuna belly
Order: The jo-nigiri set; an extra plate of anago and chu-toro brings it home.
Tip: Closed Wednesdays. Queue ticket machine outside; 60-90 minute waits at lunch.