Japanese izakaya¥¥
Nonbei Yokocho in Tokyo: Drunkard's Alley north of Shibuya Station, 40 tiny standing counters that seat four to six, locals only after 21:00.
Why locals love it: Drunkard's Alley north of Shibuya Station, 40 tiny standing counters that seat four to six, locals only after 21:00.
Tip: Cash only at most counters; look for English-friendly signs. Many counters charge 500-yen seating fees.
Cafe¥¥
Cafe de l'Ambre on Ginza's Suzuran-dori in Tokyo is a 1948 aged-coffee specialist with 20-year-aged beans, no food and cash only behind a tiled counter.
Why locals love it: Hidden in plain sight on Ginza's Suzuran-dori, the 1948 aged-coffee specialist most tourists walk past.
Tip: Order the 20-year-aged bean on the day's blackboard. No food, no laptops, cash only, no rush.
Bakery¥¥
Pelican Bakery in Tokyo: 1942 Asakusa bakery that bakes only shokupan and rolls, sells out by 14:00, and locals reserve loaves two days ahead.
Why locals love it: 1942 Asakusa bakery that bakes only shokupan and rolls, sells out by 14:00, and locals reserve loaves two days ahead.
Tip: Phone-reserve a loaf two days ahead, or arrive by 10:00 on a weekday. The Pelican Cafe serves the same loaves toasted.
Wine bar¥¥
Ahiru Store in Tokyo: 12-seat natural-wine counter in Tomigaya, no reservations after 18:30 and a queue that turns away most weekend visitors.
Why locals love it: 12-seat natural-wine counter in Tomigaya, no reservations after 18:30 and a queue that turns away most weekend visitors.
Tip: Arrive at 18:00 for the second seating or 17:30 for the first. Sister Wakako's rustic breads are the food side.
Cafe¥¥
Onibus Coffee Nakameguro is two-storey wooden house above the toyoko line tracks; no laptops, no menu beyond the four pours, second-floor bench only.
Why locals love it: Two-storey wooden house above the Toyoko Line tracks; no laptops, no menu beyond the four pours, second-floor bench only.
Tip: Ethiopia hand-drip and the second-floor bench facing the train tracks. The roaster is at the back of the ground floor.
Japanese¥¥
Harmonica Yokocho is post-war alley behind kichijoji station with 100 stalls, locals only, most of tokyo's tourists never make it this far west.
Why locals love it: Post-war alley behind Kichijoji station with 100 stalls, locals only, most of Tokyo's tourists never make it this far west.
Tip: The alley density makes any stall a discovery; after 19:00 the standing yakitori counters fill with locals.