Taiyaki is a fish-shaped pancake stuffed with sweet azuki bean paste, cooked in cast-iron moulds over flame. Crisp shell, soft interior, eaten hot from the brown paper sleeve.
Taiyaki was invented in 1909 by Seijiro Kanbe, founder of Naniwaya Sohonten in Azabu, who reshaped the older imagawayaki round pancake into the auspicious sea-bream (tai) form. Taiyaki spread through Tokyo's festival stalls and shopping streets, becoming a fixture of Asakusa's Nakamise-dori and Ueno's Ameya-Yokocho. The original Naniwaya Sohonten still trades from the same location; its cast-iron mould technique (one fish at a time, ippon-yaki) is now the gold standard against which factory-mould chains are measured.
Ameya-Yokocho in Tokyo's Ueno is the 500-metre street under the JR tracks, 400 vendors of takoyaki, kebabs, dried seafood, post-war black-market origin.
OrderTakoyaki, okonomiyaki, kebab, dried fish
TipSaturday afternoons are jammed; weekday mornings stay calm. The takoyaki stalls and Turkish kebab counters are the lunch picks.
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