Taiyaki is a fish-shaped pancake stuffed with sweet azuki bean paste, cooked in cast-iron moulds over flame. Crisp shell, soft interior, eaten hot from the brown paper sleeve.
Where to eat it: 3 restaurants across 1 city.
Taiyaki was invented in 1909 by Seijiro Kanbe, founder of Naniwaya Sohonten in Azabu, who reshaped the older imagawayaki round pancake into the auspicious sea-bream (tai) form. Taiyaki spread through Tokyo's festival stalls and shopping streets, becoming a fixture of Asakusa's Nakamise-dori and Ueno's Ameya-Yokocho. The original Naniwaya Sohonten still trades from the same location; its cast-iron mould technique (one fish at a time, ippon-yaki) is now the gold standard against which factory-mould chains are measured.
Common allergens: Gluten, Egg, Soy
Tip from the editors. No taiyaki mould? Use a stovetop egg-bite or small waffle mould; texture is right even if shape is not. Cook the batter fresh; it loses lift if it sits.
Nakamise-dori in Tokyo's Asakusa is the 250-metre snack street between Kaminarimon gate and Senso-ji temple. Ningyo-yaki, agemanju, senbei since 1685.
Try: Ningyo-yaki, agemanju, senbei rice crackers
Tip: The ningyo-yaki at Kimura-ya Honten and senbei at Tokiwa-do are the historic picks. Eat on the spot, do not walk-and-eat.
Ameya-Yokocho in Tokyo's Ueno is the 500-metre street under the JR tracks, 400 vendors of takoyaki, kebabs, dried seafood, post-war black-market origin.
Try: Takoyaki, okonomiyaki, kebab, dried fish
Tip: Saturday afternoons are jammed; weekday mornings stay calm. The takoyaki stalls and Turkish kebab counters are the lunch picks.
Tsukiji Outer Market in Tokyo's Chuo ward keeps 400 standing-counter food stalls running each morning. Tamagoyaki sticks, uni-don, scallop skewers.
Try: Tamagoyaki sticks, uni-don, grilled scallops
Tip: Yamacho's tamagoyaki sticks and the standing-sushi counters at Sushizanmai are the canonical sequence; arrive before 09:00.
More cities are in research. Want taiyaki covered somewhere specific? Tell us where you want to eat.