Dorayaki is two small castella-style pancakes sandwiched around a generous filling of sweet azuki bean paste. Soft, honey-sweetened, eaten any time of day with green tea.
Dorayaki's modern form dates to the early 20th century, when Tokyo's Ueno confectionery Usagiya refined the older single-pancake gyutaiyaki into the now-canonical sandwich shape around 1914. Usagiya still trades on the same Ueno block and its dorayaki is widely cited (Time Out, Michelin Bib Gourmand listings) as the city's reference version. The dish became a national icon after the 1969 manga Doraemon made it the title character's favourite food; Asakusa's Nakamise-dori and Ueno's Ameya-Yokocho have sold them as a souvenir snack ever since.
Isetan Shinjuku's basement depachika in Tokyo is the world's most chosen department-store food hall: 60 counters of bento, sushi, wagashi, French patisserie.
TipThe 19:30 half-price markdown on bento and prepared food is the local move. Wagashi seasonal collections drop monthly.
Ameya-Yokocho in Tokyo's Ueno is the 500-metre street under the JR tracks, 400 vendors of takoyaki, kebabs, dried seafood, post-war black-market origin.
OrderTakoyaki, okonomiyaki, kebab, dried fish
TipSaturday afternoons are jammed; weekday mornings stay calm. The takoyaki stalls and Turkish kebab counters are the lunch picks.
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