Tip: The waterfront oyster hut here runs November to March, while the Kaki Saemon counter in town stays open all year.
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Kure fed the Imperial Navy and still cooks like it: certified shops each serve one warship's curry recipe, with navy nikujaga and springy flat udon.
Tip: The self-defence force eats curry every Friday, but the certified shops serve theirs daily; save room for a rugby-ball melon pan filled with custard cream.
Tomonoura is an Edo-period tide-waiting port that runs on sea bream: tai-meshi, tai chazuke and teishoku spreads, chased with herbal homeishu liqueur.
Tip: Buses leave Fukuyama Station every 20 to 30 minutes; from May the sea bream net fishing, practised here since the 1600s, adds boat viewing to the lunch run.
Miyajima is where two Hiroshima dishes meet: conger eel rice from a shop trading since 1901 near the pier, and oysters grilled in the shell on Omotesando.
Tip: Anagomeshi Ueno sits by Miyajimaguchi station on the mainland side, so you can eat before or after the ferry.
Saijo packs seven working sake breweries into a few streets of brick chimneys and white plaster walls, the easiest brewery walk anywhere near Hiroshima.
Tip: Kamotsuru runs paid tastings and brewery tours year round, and the whole district fills for the October sake festival.
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