Tip: Anagomeshi Ueno sits by Miyajimaguchi station on the mainland side, so you can eat before or after the ferry.
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Saijo packs seven working sake breweries into a few streets of brick chimneys and white plaster walls, the easiest brewery walk anywhere near Hiroshima.
Tip: Kamotsuru runs paid tastings and brewery tours year round, and the whole district fills for the October sake festival.
Onomichi is the Hiroshima port town whose soy ramen, finished with pork back fat and sardine stock, is better known nationally than the city's own chuka soba.
Tip: The waterfront oyster hut here runs November to March, while the Kaki Saemon counter in town stays open all year.
Kure fed the Imperial Navy and still cooks like it: certified shops each serve one warship's curry recipe, with navy nikujaga and springy flat udon.
Tip: The self-defence force eats curry every Friday, but the certified shops serve theirs daily; save room for a rugby-ball melon pan filled with custard cream.
Tomonoura is an Edo-period tide-waiting port that runs on sea bream: tai-meshi, tai chazuke and teishoku spreads, chased with herbal homeishu liqueur.
Tip: Buses leave Fukuyama Station every 20 to 30 minutes; from May the sea bream net fishing, practised here since the 1600s, adds boat viewing to the lunch run.
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