Bigoli in salsa
Photo: brownpau from Washington, DC · CC BY 2.0

Whole-wheat thick-cut spaghetti dressed with a slow-cooked onion and anchovy sauce. The canonical Venetian meatless pasta, served on lean-Friday and Christmas Eve.

Bigoli is the whole-wheat pasta extruded through a brass torchio (press) that gives it its rough texture and bite. The in salsa preparation, onions slowly melted into a paste with salted anchovies, was the canonical lean-day dish, traditionally served on Ash Wednesday, Good Friday and Christmas Eve. The dish has no tomato, no garlic, no cheese, just onion, anchovy and olive oil reduced to a near-confit. It survives unchanged at every traditional Venetian trattoria and is on the menu at Vini da Gigio, Anice Stellato and Antiche Carampane.

5 editor picks for Bigoli in salsa in Venice, ranked by editorial score. All Venice signature dishes · Bigoli in salsa across every city.

Also in: Verona.

Osteria alle Testiere ★ 4.7

€€€ItalianCastello

Osteria alle Testiere in Venice's Castello is the 22-seat room with two seatings, run by Bruno Gavagnin and Luca di Vita on Calle del Mondo Novo since 1993.

OrderGnocchetti with calamari and cinnamon, branzino in salt crust, the salty antipasti.

TipTwo seatings only: 12:30 + 13:30 for lunch, 19:15 + 21:30 for dinner. Book at least a fortnight ahead through their online form.

Antiche Carampane ★ 4.6

€€€ItalianSan Polo

Antiche Carampane in Venice's San Polo is the 1983 family-run seafood trattoria the Rialto fishmongers send friends to, the room with the no-tourist-menu.

OrderSpaghetti with vongole, fritto misto della laguna, sarde in saor.

TipBook a fortnight ahead. Closed Sundays and Mondays. The dining room has 10 tables, so flexibility on date is more useful than time.

Vini da Gigio ★ 4.5

€€€ItalianCannaregio

Vini da Gigio in Venice's Cannaregio is the Lazzari family's canal-side trattoria, a Slow Food-listed family room running the canonical Venetian carte.

OrderBigoli in salsa, fegato alla veneziana, branzino in salt crust.

TipClosed Mondays and Tuesdays. The wine cellar runs to 1,200 labels. Book a week ahead online or by phone.

Osteria Anice Stellato ★ 4.4

€€€Modern Venetian SeafoodCannaregio

Osteria Anice Stellato in Venice's Cannaregio is the canal-side modern Venetian seafood room on Fondamenta de la Sensa, with outdoor tables along the rio.

OrderBigoli in salsa, marinated anchovies, the daily ravioli.

TipClosed Mondays. Book outdoor terrace on the rio in summer through their email or the dishcult listing.

Trattoria Bar Pontini ★ 4.0

€€ItalianCannaregio

Trattoria Bar Pontini on Rio Terra San Leonardo in Cannaregio is the neighbourhood lunchroom locals fill at noon, the canonical no-bookings Venetian set.

OrderSpaghetti al nero di seppia, risotto al radicchio in autumn, the daily fritto misto.

TipWalk-in only. Lunchtime sets at €14 (primo + secondo + acqua) run Monday to Friday.

Learn to cook it, or eat it with a guide

Bigoli in salsa makes more sense with someone from Venice explaining it. These are the classes and tours we have checked, with booking links.

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