Bigoli in salsa
Photo: brownpau from Washington, DC · CC BY 2.0

History

Bigoli is the whole-wheat pasta extruded through a brass torchio (press) that gives it its rough texture and bite. The in salsa preparation, onions slowly melted into a paste with salted anchovies, was the canonical lean-day dish, traditionally served on Ash Wednesday, Good Friday and Christmas Eve. The dish has no tomato, no garlic, no cheese, just onion, anchovy and olive oil reduced to a near-confit. It survives unchanged at every traditional Venetian trattoria and is on the menu at Vini da Gigio, Anice Stellato and Antiche Carampane.

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Common allergens: Gluten, Fish

Make it at home

Yield 4Hands-on 45 minTotal 1 hrDifficulty Easy

Ingredients

  • 400g bigoli (or whole-wheat spaghetti)
  • 1kg white onions, sliced thinly
  • 10 salted anchovies (acciughe sotto sale), rinsed and de-spined
  • 100ml extra virgin olive oil
  • 100ml white wine
  • Sea salt, black pepper
  • Chopped parsley to finish

Method

  1. Slice the onions paper-thin. Combine with olive oil and a pinch of salt in a heavy pan over very low heat.
  2. Cook the onions covered for 30 minutes, stirring every five, until they collapse into a soft pale-gold mass. Do not let them colour.
  3. Add the white wine and reduce 5 minutes.
  4. Add the rinsed anchovies and crush them into the onions with a wooden spoon; they dissolve into the sauce within 5 minutes.
  5. Cook bigoli in well-salted boiling water until al dente. Reserve 200ml pasta water.
  6. Drain the pasta and toss it in the sauce with a splash of reserved water. Finish with chopped parsley and black pepper. No cheese.

Tip from the editors. Salted anchovies (acciughe sotto sale) not oil-packed; the texture is completely different.

Where to eat bigoli in salsa

Bigoli in salsa in Venice

Vini da Gigio ★ 4.5

€€ Italian

Vini da Gigio is lazzari family trattoria on calle stua in cannaregio with a 1,200-label cellar that locals book first and tourists rarely find.

Why locals goLazzari family trattoria on Calle Stua in Cannaregio with a 1,200-label cellar that locals book first and tourists rarely find.

TipClosed Mondays and Tuesdays. Book a week ahead. The wine cellar is the reason; ask Laura Lazzari for pairings.

Osteria Anice Stellato ★ 4.4

€€ Italian

Osteria Anice Stellato (Italian) in Venice: Book a canal-side terrace table in summer. Closed Mondays. Bigoli in salsa and marinated anchovies are the moves.

Why locals goTucked on Fondamenta de la Sensa in far Cannaregio, the canal-side dining room is a 25-minute walk from San Marco that most visitors never reach.

TipBook a canal-side terrace table in summer. Closed Mondays. Bigoli in salsa and marinated anchovies are the moves.

Antiche Carampane ★ 4.6

€€€ ItalianSan Polo

Antiche Carampane in Venice's San Polo is the 1983 family-run seafood trattoria the Rialto fishmongers send friends to, the room with the no-tourist-menu.

OrderSpaghetti with vongole, fritto misto della laguna, sarde in saor.

TipBook a fortnight ahead. Closed Sundays and Mondays. The dining room has 10 tables, so flexibility on date is more useful than time.

Trattoria Bar Pontini ★ 4.0

€€ Italian

Trattoria Bar Pontini is cannaregio neighbourhood lunchroom locals fill at noon, with no english menu and a €14 weekday set lunch under most tourist radars.

Why locals goCannaregio neighbourhood lunchroom locals fill at noon, with no English menu and a €14 weekday set lunch under most tourist radars.

TipWalk-in only. Set lunch weekdays only. Arrive 12:30 for the best seating.

Osteria alle Testiere ★ 4.7

€€€€ Tasting €80ItalianChef Bruno Gavagnin

Osteria alle Testiere in Castello is the 22-seat lagoon-fish bistro with two seatings per service, run by Bruno Gavagnin and Luca di Vita since 1993.

Book3 weeks ahead

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Bigoli in salsa in Verona

Antica Bottega del Vino ★ 4.7

€€ ItalianUntil Kitchen to 23:30, bar to 24:00

Antica Bottega del Vino in Verona runs the city's kitchen latest. A 2026 TableJourney editor pick with address, hours and what to order inside the entry.

TryPastissada de caval with a glass of Amarone

TipPost-opera (after 22:30) is the sweet spot; the back dining room takes walk-ins.

Trattoria Al Bersagliere ★ 4.8

€€ ItalianCitta Antica

Trattoria Al Bersagliere in Verona is the family-run 1928 trattoria in Borgo dei Filippini, where bigoli con l'arna and pastissada de caval are the plates.

SignatureBigoli con l'arna, Pastissada de caval, Tagliere

TipThe bigoli con l'arna and pastissada are reference Veronese plates; lunch with primo, secondo and a glass runs about €32.

Trattoria al Cristo ★ 4.0

€€ Italian

Trattoria al Cristo on Piazzetta Pescheria behind Piazza delle Erbe is the locals-only osteria pouring Soave and plating Veronese pearà bollito on Sundays.

Why locals goBehind Piazza delle Erbe on the old Pescheria fish-market square; the location is two minutes from the tourist crush but the room is locals only.

TipBook 24 hours ahead for the pearà bollito on Sundays October to March; midweek lunch is walk-in friendly with no booking needed.

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