Trattoria€€oltretorrenteTue-Sat 12:30-14:30, 20:00-22:30; Sun-Mon closed
Trattoria Il Cortile serves Parma classics in a vaulted Oltretorrente courtyard room: anolini in brodo, tortelli d'erbetta and slow-braised veal cheek.
Signature: Anolini in brodo, Tortelli d'erbetta, Guancialino di vitello
Order: Anolini in brodo, then the braised veal cheek.
Tip: The Oltretorrente side of the river stays calmer than the Duomo streets at dinner, so this is the easier good table on a Saturday.
Italian€€€centro-storicoTue-Sat 12:00-14:00, 19:00-22:00; Sun 12:00-14:00; Mon closed
Angiol d'Or puts its terrace tables in front of Parma's Duomo and Baptistery, cooking traditional dishes with a creative hand and a serious cellar.
Signature: Beef tartare, Tortelli d'erbetta, Torta della nonna
Order: Beef tartare, then tortelli with the Baptistery in view.
Tip: Ask for the outside tables on Vicolo Scutellari at lunch; the pink marble of the Baptistery does the decorating for free.
Trattoria€€centro-storicoDaily 12:00-24:00
Trattoria Corrieri fills an old posthouse courtyard near Parma's Parco Ducale with torta fritta, tortelli d'erbetta and anolini served all day long.
Signature: Tortelli d'erbetta, Anolini in brodo, Torta fritta con salumi
Order: Torta fritta with Prosciutto di Parma, then tortelli d'erbetta.
Tip: It runs continuous service from noon to midnight, so aim for 15:00 or 18:30 to skip the queues that build at classic meal times.
Trattoria€€€oltretorrenteSun-Fri 12:15-14:15, 19:15-22:00; Sat closed (Sat-Sun closed in June and July)
Ristorante Cocchi has fed Parma's bourgeoisie since 1925: anolini in brodo, the trio of tortelli and, from September to April, a serious bollito trolley.
Signature: Anolini in brodo, Trio of tortelli, Bolliti, Savarin di riso
Order: Anolini in brodo, then the boiled-meat trolley in winter.
Tip: The bolliti run September to April only. Book a day ahead for Sunday lunch, when Parma families claim most of the two dining rooms.
Trattoria€€centro-storicoLunch and dinner Mon-Sat; Sun closed; summer break mid-July to late August
Osteria del 36 traces its name to 1880, when wine here cost 36 cents a litre; chef Francesco Ziveri has run its Emilian kitchen in Parma since 1997.
Signature: Tortelli d'erbetta, Anolini in brodo, Punta di vitello ripiena
Order: Tortelli d'erbetta and the stuffed veal breast.
Tip: It closes from mid-July to around 20 August each summer, so check before an August visit and book for the small wine-lined room.
Trattoria€€centro-storicoDaily 12:00-15:00, 19:00-22:30
Trattoria Sorelle Picchi grew out of a historic salumeria on Strada Farini in Parma, so lunch starts at the counter: culatello, coppa and spalla cotta.
Signature: Culatello di Zibello, Tortelli d'erbetta, Anolini in brodo
Order: The salumi board from the counter, then anolini in brodo.
Tip: The front counter is a working salumeria whose boards also sell to take away; tables book in two seatings at lunch, 12:00 and 13:45.