Sicilian Seafood€€€liberta
Corona Trattoria on Via Marconi in Palermo's Liberta quarter sources seafood daily from the city's fishermen, with a modern raw-plate carte alongside.
Signature: Bucatini con le sarde, Spaghetti al nero di seppia, Gambero rosso crudo
Order: Bucatini con le sarde and a plate of gambero rosso crudo with bottarga.
Tip: Book three days ahead at weekends. The chef's tasting is the kitchen's verdict on the day's catch.
Italian€€loggia
FUD Bottega Sicula on Piazza Olivella in Palermo runs a Sicilian-ingredient burger and hot-dog room, Modica beef in the patties, Nebrodi cured meats.
Signature: Shek burger (Modica beef), Nebrodi sausage hot dog, Sicilian fries
Order: The Shek burger with Modica beef, paired with a house Bottega Sicula craft beer.
Tip: No reservations; lunch is the easiest entry. The vegetarian Sicilian burger is the credible meat-free option.
Pizzeria€€capo
Frida Pizzeria on Piazza Sant'Onofrio in Palermo's Capo quarter runs a Frida-Kahlo-themed dining room with a strong vegetarian and vegan slate alongside.
Signature: Caponata pizza, Margherita, Pizza vegana
Order: Caponata pizza, the house signature of sweet-sour aubergine on a thin Palermitan crust.
Tip: Closed Tuesday. Book the courtyard table at weekends; gluten-free crust is available with advance notice.
Sicilian Street Food€loggia
Ke Palle on Via Maqueda between the Quattro Canti and Teatro Massimo in Palermo is the city's flagship arancineria, 20-plus daily flavours fried to order.
Signature: Arancina classica, Arancina ai porcini, Arancina al pistacchio
Order: Arancina classica (meat ragu) and the porcini, the two most ordered.
Tip: Open 10:00-22:00 daily. Vegan and vegetarian fillings are clearly labelled; the pistachio is the after-dinner sleeper.
Sicilian Street Food€kalsa
Nni Franco u' Vastiddaru on Corso Vittorio Emanuele at Piazza Marina in Palermo is the canonical pane con la milza counter, founded 1992 by a former Antica.
Signature: Pane con la milza, Pane e panelle, Sfincione
Order: Pane con la milza maritato (with caciocavallo and ricotta), the Palermo street food rite of passage.
Tip: Cash works fastest. The vastedda al lardo is the milder gateway; ask for it without spleen if you want the bread experience alone.
Italian€€kalsa
Ballarak on Piazza Magione in Palermo's Kalsa quarter is the city's first craft brewery and brewpub since 2016, four taps of house beer alongside a Sicilian.
Signature: Sfincione pizza, Burger di Suino Nero, Crocche
Order: Sfincione-style pizza and the Suino Nero burger, with the house IPA on tap.
Tip: The piazza-facing tables are the best summer seats. Tap list rotates monthly; ask which beer is the freshest.