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Tip: Lunch at Limu requires three-week advance booking. The Aspra fishing-village panini meusa is the casual lunch alternative.

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Cefalu ★ 4.2

Cefalu 70km east of Palermo is the Norman-era seaside town and UNESCO site, with the medieval Cathedral, the Lungomare fishing-village restaurants.

Tip: April to October. The Lungomare seafood trattorias take walk-ins; Cefalu cathedral is the architectural highlight.

Monreale ★ 4.0

Monreale 8km south of Palermo is the Norman cathedral and cloister town, with the world's most complete Norman-Byzantine mosaic cycle and the local ravioli.

Tip: The cathedral cloister opens 09:00. Lunch at Trattoria Familiare on the piazza for ravioli alla monrealese.

Trapani and Erice ★ 4.3

Trapani 100km west of Palermo is the home of couscous trapanese (with fish broth, the Sicilian Arab dialect cousin) and Marsala DOC. Booking recommended.

Tip: Cantina Siciliana in Trapani is the canonical couscous trapanese room. Pasticceria Maria Grammatico in Erice for the genovese.

Etna wine country ★ 4.6

Etna wine country 200km east of Palermo is Sicily's volcanic-vineyard region, with Nerello Mascalese (Etna Rosso) and Carricante (Etna Bianco) from producers.

Tip: Stay overnight in Linguaglossa or Castiglione di Sicilia for cellar visits. Etna sommelier-led tours via Strada del Vino dell'Etna.

Mondello ★ 4.5

Mondello 12km north of Palermo is the city's Belle Epoque seafront, with Bye Bye Blues on Via del Garofalo (Patrizia Di Benedetto's former Michelin-starred.

Tip: April to October only for the beach lunch. The 1900 Antico Stabilimento Balneare is the architectural backdrop.

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