Sicilian€€loggia
Trattoria Trapani on Piazza Giulio Cesare near Palermo Central Station is a family-run western-Sicilian trattoria, busiate and couscous-trapanese alongside.
Signature: Spaghetti alle vongole, Cotoletta alla palermitana, Panelle
Order: Cotoletta alla palermitana and the spaghetti alle vongole.
Tip: Walk-ins seat fast on weekdays; book one day ahead at weekends.
Sicilian Street Food€kalsa
Antica Focacceria San Francesco opposite the basilica in Palermo's Kalsa is the 1834-founded sit-down street food room, canonical pane ca' meusa.
Signature: Pane ca' meusa, Sfincione, Arancina
Order: Pane ca' meusa and a plate of panelle e crocche.
Tip: The terrace facing San Francesco basilica is the seat to ask for. Counter is fastest at lunch.
Italian€€loggia
FUD Bottega Sicula on Piazza Olivella in Palermo runs a Sicilian-ingredient burger and hot-dog room, Modica beef, Nebrodi salumi and house craft beer.
Signature: Shek burger (Modica beef), Nebrodi hot dog, Sicilian fries
Order: Shek burger with Modica beef paired with a Bottega Sicula craft beer.
Tip: No reservations; lunch is the easiest entry. Vegetarian burger is the credible meat-free option.
Sicilian Street Food€loggia
Ke Palle on Via Maqueda in Palermo is the city's flagship arancineria, 20-plus daily flavours fried to order, vegan and vegetarian fillings labelled.
Signature: Arancina classica, Arancina ai porcini, Arancina al pistacchio
Order: Arancina classica (meat ragu) and the porcini.
Tip: Open 10:00-22:00 daily. Pistachio is the after-dinner sleeper.
Pizzeria€€capo
Frida Pizzeria on Piazza Sant'Onofrio in Palermo's Capo quarter runs a Frida-Kahlo-themed pizzeria, strong vegetarian and vegan slate alongside.
Signature: Caponata pizza, Margherita, Pizza vegana
Order: Caponata pizza, the house signature of sweet-sour aubergine on a thin crust.
Tip: Closed Tuesday. Book the courtyard table at weekends. Gluten-free crust with advance notice.
Sicilian€€capo
Ai Cascinari on Via D'Ossuna in Palermo is a 1949-founded Slow Food trattoria behind the Capo market; Sunday lunch carte runs the full cucina povera.
Signature: Pasta con le sarde, Sarde a beccafico, Anelletti al forno
Order: Pasta con le sarde and the Sunday anelletti al forno, the cucina povera baseline.
Tip: Book ahead for Sunday lunch. The room turns three times; gluten-free pasta with notice.