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SeafoodBuon Pastore
Il Patriarca sits far south on Modena's Strada Vignolese, a seafood pizzeria past the ring road that locals reach by car, not on foot from the centre.
Why locals goSet far south on Strada Vignolese past the ring road, this seafood pizzeria draws a local crowd rather than anyone walking from the centro storico.
TipKitchen runs until midnight most nights; closed all day Tuesday.
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TrattoriaSan Faustino
Cucina di Quartiere - Trattoria in San Faustino sits well south on Modena's Via Giardini, a neighbourhood table most centro storico visitors miss.
Why locals goA family kitchen on Via Giardini in the San Faustino district, well south of the centro storico, cooking handmade pasta mostly for the neighbourhood.
TipClosed Sundays; prices run lower than an equivalent centro storico address.
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OsteriaCentro Storico
Zemian Piccola Osteria hides on a quiet Modena back street off Via Fonte d'Abisso, easy to miss despite its careful Emilian cooking just inside.
Why locals goA handful of tables on a quiet back street off Via Fonte d'Abisso, easy to walk past despite careful Emilian cooking behind the plain door.
TipSeats are few and demand is high; call weeks ahead for a weekend table.
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TrattoriaBuon Pastore
Trattoria L'Antica Grama cooks Sicilian-accented Emilian dishes on Via Vignolese in southern Modena, a family run trattoria closed on Tuesdays.
OrderTortelloni or a Sicilian influenced antipasto plate.
Why locals goSet on Via Vignolese well south of the tourist route, this trattoria draws a mostly local crowd and rarely appears in visitor guides.
TipThe Sicilian touches show up in the antipasti more than in the pasta courses.
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ItalianCentro Storico
Ristretto sits down a hidden alley called Vicolo Coccapani in central Modena, an enoteca kitchen open late for gnocco fritto and beef tartare.
OrderGnocco fritto with culaccia or the beef tartare.
Why locals goThe entrance sits down a closed alley off Via Sant'Agostino with no street sign visible from the main road, so most visitors walk past it.
TipLook for the sign at Vicolo Coccapani off Via Sant'Agostino, easy to miss after dark.
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TrattoriaSacca Crocetta
Trattoria Bianca on Via Spaccini in Modena grew from a grandmother's osteria opened in 1948 and still serves salumi with gnocco fritto and duroni cherry jam.
OrderMixed salumi with gnocco fritto and duroni cherry jam, then tortellini in brodo.
Why locals goA family trattoria on a residential street north of the railway that its owners call one of the few historic Modena places left, open on weekdays only.
TipClosed on Saturdays and Sundays and from 31 July to 24 August; at lunch the kitchen stops taking orders at 13:45.