Crescentine, called tigelle almost everywhere outside the Apennines, are small round breads of flour, milk, yeast and lard, split while hot and filled with cunza, salumi or soft cheese.

Crescentine come from the Modenese Apennines, where the dough was baked in a stack between red-hot terracotta discs called tigelle, lined with chestnut or walnut leaves, in front of the fire. The name of the disc passed to the bread in the plains, which is why Modena argues over it: in a 2016 Gazzetta di Modena poll 64 per cent voted for crescentine and 36 per cent for tigelle. At home most cooks now use an aluminium mould that holds four to seven at a time.

5 editor picks for Crescentine (tigelle) in Modena, ranked by editorial score. All Modena signature dishes · Crescentine (tigelle) across every city.

Also in: Bologna.

La Chersenta ★ 4.0

€Street foodCentro Storico

La Chersenta brings Pavullo style crescentina to Modena's Via Albinelli, a casual counter for gnocco fritto beside the Albinelli covered market.

OrderThe crescentina with lardo, rosemary and grated Parmigiano.

TipClosed Sundays; the larger tigella grande is a house specialty worth trying.

Trattoria La Stalla ★ 4.0

€€€TrattoriaSacca Crocetta

Trattoria La Stalla serves gnocco fritto and tigelle on Via del Mercato in northern Modena, its kitchen open past midnight on Fridays and Saturdays.

OrderGnocco fritto with tigelle and a plate of homemade pasta.

TipSkip Tuesday, the one night the kitchen stays closed all week here.

Dispensa Emilia ★ 3.9

€ItalianSan Lazzaro

Dispensa Emilia serves casual tigelle and gnocco fritto on Modena's Via Emilia Est, a chain outpost offering combinations of five different fillings.

OrderA combination of five tigelle fillings, the house signature order.

TipOutdoor seating suits families; open every day with no midweek closing.

Sosta Emiliana ★ 3.7

€€TrattoriaCentro Storico

Sosta Emiliana serves tigelle with sweet and savoury fillings near Piazza Grande in central Modena, a fixed-menu tigelleria that closes on Wednesdays.

OrderThe tigelle tasting plate with cured meats, squacquerone and jams.

TipThe all you can eat tigelle format is best shared between two or more people.

L'Or-Ma Crescenteria ★ 3.6

€Street foodCentro Storico

L'Or-Ma Crescenteria fills tigelle and crescentine on Via dei Gallucci in central Modena, a budget counter open for lunch and dinner every evening.

OrderCrescentine filled with squacquerone and cured meats.

TipA handful of stools line the counter, so many diners take their crescentine to go.

Learn to cook it, or eat it with a guide

Crescentine (tigelle) makes more sense with someone from Modena explaining it. These are the classes and tours we have checked, with booking links.

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