The districts north of the railway around Sacca, Crocetta and Via Canaletto, with early-opening coffee bars, a gluten-free food lab and neighbourhood trattorie.
Lo Stalliere in Modena occupies a converted stable near the Modena Nord tollbooth, plating calf liver and gnocco fritto with cured meats daily.
OrderThe calf liver with caramelised onions and the gnocco fritto with mixed cured meats.
TipA covered terrace seats extra guests; closed Monday evenings, otherwise open most nights.
Trattoria Urbana Gnock and Roll serves gnocco fritto and crescentine near the Porta Nord district of Modena, open for lunch and closed on Sundays.
OrderGnocco fritto with crescentine and a mixed cured meat board.
TipKitchen hours are short, so arrive for lunch rather than a late dinner here.
Caffè Oleari on Modena's Via Manfredo Fanti opens before dawn for espresso, gnocco fritto and home-baked pastries near the Crocetta rail line.
DrinkEspresso with gnocco fritto
TipIt opens at 04:30 for market porters and shift workers; the gnocco fritto with ham is the classic order.
Doppiozero Food Lab in Modena's Sacca district fries gnocco and grills piadina and tigelle, with a dedicated gluten-free kitchen right alongside.
TryPiadina, tigelle and gnocco fritto
TipThe gluten-free line uses separate equipment, so a mixed group can order safely from the same counter.
Bar Ristorante Torrazzi cooks a fixed lunch menu of handmade pasta on Via Nonantolana in northern Modena, open from early morning into the evening.
OrderThe fixed lunch menu of handmade pasta and a seasonal second course.
TipCome before eight in the morning for fresh pastries, or at midday for the fixed menu.
Trattoria La Stalla serves gnocco fritto and tigelle on Via del Mercato in northern Modena, its kitchen open past midnight on Fridays and Saturdays.
OrderGnocco fritto with tigelle and a plate of homemade pasta.
TipSkip Tuesday, the one night the kitchen stays closed all week here.
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