Warm chickpeas pureed with tahini, lemon and garlic, spooned into a shallow bowl with olive oil, whole chickpeas and pita for scooping, the everyday lunch at Tel Aviv's hummusias.
A chickpea puree appears in a 13th-century Aleppo cookbook, though tahini and garlic entered the recipe later, recorded in an 1885 Lebanese cookbook. The dish was already a Levantine staple when Tel Aviv's hummus counters opened: the Yemenite family behind Shlomo and Doron has made it since 1937, and Ali Karavan, known as Abu Hassan, sold it from a Jaffa cart from 1959 before opening his HaDolfin Street shop in 1972. Israeli industrial production from 1958 turned hummus into a packaged supermarket product, but the city's hummusias still serve it the older way, warm from the pot with whole chickpeas and a slick of olive oil, eaten at a shared counter until the pot empties for the day.
Abu Hassan on HaDolfin Street in Jaffa serves hummus and the ful triangle plate in the shop Ali Karavan opened in 1972, after selling from a cart since 1959.
OrderHummus, ful and msabbaha triangle plate
TipArrive by noon; the hummus sells out most afternoons and the counter shuts for the day the moment it does.
Shlomo and Doron on Yishkon Street in Tel Aviv is a Yemenite family hummus counter dating to 1937, now run by its fourth generation and shut by mid-afternoon.
OrderYemenite-style hummus with ful and tahini
TipCome for an early lunch; the counter closes by mid-afternoon, and fourth-generation Elad adds new hummus dishes to the classics.
Hummus Abu Adham on Karlibach Street has served hand made hummus in Tel Aviv since 2003, prepared daily by founders Ron and Yehuda without preservatives.
OrderA bowl of Mashwasha hummus with warm pita straight from the counter.
TipOrder the mashwasha, the house specialty, and eat it warm; the counter closes at 18:00.
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