History
A chickpea puree appears in a 13th-century Aleppo cookbook, though tahini and garlic entered the recipe later, recorded in an 1885 Lebanese cookbook. The dish was already a Levantine staple when Tel Aviv's hummus counters opened: the Yemenite family behind Shlomo and Doron has made it since 1937, and Ali Karavan, known as Abu Hassan, sold it from a Jaffa cart from 1959 before opening his HaDolfin Street shop in 1972. Israeli industrial production from 1958 turned hummus into a packaged supermarket product, but the city's hummusias still serve it the older way, warm from the pot with whole chickpeas and a slick of olive oil, eaten at a shared counter until the pot empties for the day.