Hummus
Photo: Canbel · CC BY-SA 4.0

History

A chickpea puree appears in a 13th-century Aleppo cookbook, though tahini and garlic entered the recipe later, recorded in an 1885 Lebanese cookbook. The dish was already a Levantine staple when Tel Aviv's hummus counters opened: the Yemenite family behind Shlomo and Doron has made it since 1937, and Ali Karavan, known as Abu Hassan, sold it from a Jaffa cart from 1959 before opening his HaDolfin Street shop in 1972. Israeli industrial production from 1958 turned hummus into a packaged supermarket product, but the city's hummusias still serve it the older way, warm from the pot with whole chickpeas and a slick of olive oil, eaten at a shared counter until the pot empties for the day.

Common allergens: Sesame, Gluten

Make it at home

Yield Serves 4Hands-on 20 minTotal 13 hr 35 minDifficulty Easy

Ingredients

  • 250g dried chickpeas, soaked overnight with 1/2 tsp bicarbonate of soda
  • 1 tsp bicarbonate of soda for cooking
  • 150g tahini paste
  • 1 lemon, juiced
  • 2 cloves garlic, crushed
  • Cold water as needed
  • Sea salt
  • 3 tbsp olive oil
  • 1 tsp ground cumin, to finish
  • Warm pita, to serve

Method

  1. Drain the soaked chickpeas and rinse. Bring to the boil in fresh water with 1 tsp bicarbonate of soda, skimming the foam.
  2. Simmer 1 to 1.5 hours until the chickpeas collapse when pressed between two fingers. Drain, keeping a cup of the cooking liquid, and set aside a spoonful of whole chickpeas to garnish.
  3. Blend the rest while still warm with tahini, lemon juice, garlic and salt, adding cooking liquid until the puree turns light and airy, about 3 minutes on high speed.
  4. Spread onto a shallow plate with the back of a spoon, making a well in the centre. Pour in the olive oil, scatter the reserved chickpeas and dust with cumin.
  5. Serve immediately with warm pita; hummus stiffens as it cools, so eat it while the puree is still warm from blending.

Tip from the editors. Blend the chickpeas while they are still hot; cold chickpeas make a grainy, heavy puree instead of an airy one.

Where to eat hummus

Hummus in Tel Aviv

Abu Hassan ★ 4.7

$ LevantineJaffa

Abu Hassan on HaDolfin Street in Jaffa serves hummus and the ful triangle plate in the shop Ali Karavan opened in 1972, after selling from a cart since 1959.

TryHummus, ful and msabbaha triangle plate

TipArrive by noon; the hummus sells out most afternoons and the counter shuts for the day the moment it does.

Hummus Abu Adham ★ 3.6

$ Middle EasternLev Hair

Hummus Abu Adham on Karlibach Street has served hand made hummus in Tel Aviv since 2003, prepared daily by founders Ron and Yehuda without preservatives.

OrderA bowl of Mashwasha hummus with warm pita straight from the counter.

TipOrder the mashwasha, the house specialty, and eat it warm; the counter closes at 18:00.

Shlomo and Doron ★ 4.3

$ LevantineKerem Hateimanim

Shlomo and Doron on Yishkon Street in Tel Aviv is a Yemenite family hummus counter dating to 1937, now run by its fourth generation and shut by mid-afternoon.

Why locals goA four-generation Yemenite family hummus counter tucked into the lanes of Kerem HaTeimanim, just off the Carmel Market bustle.

TipCome for an early lunch; the counter closes by mid-afternoon, and fourth-generation Elad adds new hummus dishes to the classics.

Shemaya ★ 4.4

$$ Middle EasternFlorentin

Shemaya in Tel Aviv-Yafo simmers overnight Middle Eastern stews and slow-cooked hummus in a tiny Florentin storefront that most tourists walk past.

Why locals goShemaya is a one-man kitchen in a modest Florentin storefront; the slow-cooked hummus is gone by early afternoon most days and never remade.

TipCome before 13:00 for the hummus; once the pot empties for the day, the kitchen moves on to the evening stews.

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