€south-city-centreMon-Wed 10:30-23:30, Thu-Sat 10:30-00:30, Sun 12:30-23:00
Grogan's Castle Lounge on South William Street has been Dublin's literary refuge since the 1970s when Paddy Kavanagh and Flann O'Brien drank here. No music, no TV.
Tip: Order the cheese toastie, it is the entire kitchen and it is excellent. The art on the walls is for sale, ask the bar staff if you spot one.
€€south-city-centreMon-Thu 13:00-23:30, Fri-Sat 13:00-00:30, Sun 13:00-23:00
The Long Hall on South Great George's Street in Dublin is the Victorian-refurbished 1881 pub backing onto Dublin Castle, with carved partitions and a long snug.
Tip: Order a Guinness at the front bar, the back room with the chandeliers is the photograph everyone takes. No food, no music, no nonsense.
€€merrionMon-Wed 09:00-00:30, Thu-Sat 09:00-01:30, Sun 10:00-00:30
Doheny & Nesbitt on Baggot Street Lower in Dublin has been the Leinster House crowd's pub since 1828, Victorian partitions and the Doheny Snug at the front.
Tip: The Doheny Snug at the front is the original confessional-style booth, ask the bar staff if it is free, it is the room you want for two.
€€graftonMon-Thu 10:30-23:30, Fri-Sat 10:30-00:30, Sun 11:30-23:00
Kehoe's on South Anne Street in Dublin has been pulling pints since 1803, with stained-glass doors, mahogany snugs and a 19th-century interior kept like a museum.
Tip: The upstairs lounge is the old proprietor's living room kept as a bar, ask the staff if it is open, it is the prize seat.
€south-city-centreMon-Thu 12:00-23:30, Fri-Sat 12:00-00:30, Sun 12:30-23:00
Mulligan's on Poolbeg Street has poured pints in the same Dublin building since 1854, drank in by James Joyce and John F. Kennedy, an unspoiled Trinity-side dive.
Tip: Order a stout at the back bar, the Joyce Room snug holds two at a push and is named for the Counterparts arm-wrestle scene set there.
€€south-city-centreMon-Thu 12:00-23:30, Fri-Sat 12:00-00:30, Sun 12:30-23:00
The Stag's Head on Dame Court in Dublin is the 1895 A.J. McLoughlin Victorian pub James Joyce drank at, with stag-themed stained glass and carved wood snugs.
Tip: Walk down the alley off Dame Lane, the back entrance avoids the front pavement crowd. The upstairs cabaret hall hosts comedy most nights.