Bakery€Old TownDaily 06:00-23:00
Savoidakis sells kalitsounia right across Heraklion, and a warm bag of the Cretan cheese pies is the best two euros you can spend near the Agora.
Try: Kalitsounia
Order: Kalitsounia, eaten warm out of the paper bag
Tip: The Dikaiosinis branch is the handiest for the Agora, and the pies come out through the morning.
Bakery€Lions SquareDaily 06:00-00:00
Phyllosophies is the Heraklion bougatsa counter on Lions Square, hand-opened phyllo filled with cream or sweet myzithra and cut with scissors.
Try: Bougatsa
Order: Bougatsa with sweet myzithra and honey
Tip: Eat it standing on Lions Square while it is still too hot, which is how everyone in Heraklion does it.
Bakery€Lions Square
Kirkor has long sold bougatsa on Lions Square in Heraklion, and it is still the fastest breakfast in the whole city if you eat it standing up.
Try: Bougatsa
Order: Bougatsa with custard, cinnamon and icing sugar
Tip: The queue moves fast, because there are really only two things on the menu.
Greek€Old Town
Thraka Grill turns out gyros on Daskalogianni square in Heraklion until midnight, the local answer to where to eat well for about five euros.
Try: Gyros
Order: A pork gyros pita with everything on it
Tip: On Daskalogianni square, and it is the gyros stop the local food tours use rather than the seafront chains.
Greek€Nea Alikarnassos
Souvlaki Point grills skewers on Menelaou Parlama in Heraklion until one in the morning, a takeaway counter rather than a sit-down taverna room.
Try: Souvlaki
Order: Two pork skewers with pita and chips
Tip: Open until one in the morning most nights, and set up for takeaway rather than a sit-down meal.
Greek€Nea Alikarnassos
Spiros Psitopoleio is the neighbourhood grill house on Christomichali Xilouri in Heraklion, selling meat by the portion to a mostly local queue.
Try: Grilled meats
Order: A mixed grill portion to take away
Tip: A neighbourhood psitopoleio on Christomichali Xilouri, which means grilled meat by the portion rather than by the plate.