€€€€BakeryLions Square
Kirkor has long sold bougatsa on Lions Square in Heraklion, sweet myzithra or plain custard inside hot phyllo, dusted with cinnamon and icing sugar.
OrderBougatsa with sweet myzithra, honey and cinnamon
TipOrder at the counter, take a table on the square, and expect the bougatsa to arrive scalding hot.
€€€€BakeryLions Square
Phyllosophies has worked Smyrna phyllo on Lions Square in Heraklion since 1922, filling its bougatsa with fresh cream or sweet myzithra to order.
OrderBougatsa with myzithra, honey and walnuts
TipThe recipe traces to a bougatsa master from Smyrna, and the phyllo is still opened by hand every morning.
€€€€BakeryOld Town
Queen Boulangerie bakes through the day on Agiou Titou in Heraklion, a patisserie counter that runs late into the evening for pastries and cake.
OrderA pastry from the counter with a filter coffee
TipOn the corner of Agiou Titou and Evropis, open late enough to work as an after-dinner stop.
€€€€BakeryLions Square
Phyllosophies is the bougatsa house on Lions Square in Heraklion, opening its phyllo by hand every morning since 1922 and across three generations.
OrderBougatsa with myzithra, honey and walnuts
TipAlso bakes chortopites, tyropites, baklava and loukoumades, all from the same hand-opened phyllo.
€€€€BakeryLions Square
Kirkor has baked bougatsa on Lions Square in Heraklion for generations, and is still the first place locals name when you ask them about breakfast.
OrderBougatsa with custard, cinnamon and icing sugar
TipA bougatsa counter rather than a cafe, so expect to eat standing or take it away.
€€€€BakeryOld Town
Savoidakis bakes right across Heraklion, and its kalitsounia are the ones food tours stop for, alongside a long counter of sweets and gelato.
OrderKalitsounia, the Cretan cheese pie
TipA Heraklion chain with several city branches. The Dikaiosinis counter is the handiest one from the Agora.
€€€€BakeryOld Town
Artopoiio Christoforos Veneris bakes bread, pies and tsoureki on Evans in central Heraklion, with the oven working directly beneath the shop.
OrderTsoureki, plain or with chocolate
TipThe bakery works below the shop, so the pastries come up warm. At Christmas it bakes a chocolate panettone.
€€€€BakeryOld Town
Veneris Bakery & Coffee is the neighbourhood bakery on Meandrou in Heraklion, where the owner still makes the breads and the pastries himself.
OrderA savoury pastry straight off the tray
TipFamily-run and far enough from the tourist streets that the queue is almost entirely local rather than visiting.
€€€€BakeryNea Alikarnassos
Kritikos Fournos runs bakeries across Heraklion, and the Ikarou branch is the easy stop for ekmek kataifi and a box of cakes to carry back home.
OrderEkmek kataifi, the syrup and cream classic
TipA Heraklion chain with several branches, useful because the Ikarou shop opens early on the airport road.
€€€€BakeryOld Town
Queen Boulangerie is the late-opening patisserie on Agiou Titou in Heraklion, baking through the day and still selling pastries at eleven at night.
OrderA pastry from the late-night counter
TipThe counter runs late into the evening, so it covers the gap after the tavernas stop serving.
€€€€BakeryOld Town
Costis Patisserie bakes on the Knossos road out of Heraklion, selling cakes, sweets and coffee to take away from morning through to late evening.
OrderA slice from the cabinet with a Greek coffee
TipOn the Knossos road, so it works as a stop coming back from the palace rather than a city-centre errand.
€€€€BakeryLions Square
Phyllosophies is the Heraklion bougatsa counter on Lions Square, hand-opened phyllo filled with cream or sweet myzithra and cut with scissors.
OrderBougatsa with sweet myzithra and honey
TipEat it standing on Lions Square while it is still too hot, which is how everyone in Heraklion does it.
€€€€BakeryLions Square
Kirkor has long sold bougatsa on Lions Square in Heraklion, and it is still the fastest breakfast in the whole city if you eat it standing up.
OrderBougatsa with custard, cinnamon and icing sugar
TipThe queue moves fast, because there are really only two things on the menu.
€€€€BakeryOld Town
Savoidakis sells kalitsounia right across Heraklion, and a warm bag of the Cretan cheese pies is the best two euros you can spend near the Agora.
OrderKalitsounia, eaten warm out of the paper bag
TipThe Dikaiosinis branch is the handiest for the Agora, and the pies come out through the morning.
€€€€BakeryLions Square
Kirkor sells bougatsa on Lions Square in Heraklion for just a few euros, which makes its counter the cheapest good breakfast in the entire city.
OrderBougatsa with custard, cinnamon and icing sugar
TipA bougatsa and a Greek coffee is breakfast for under five euros, which is the cheapest sit-down in the old town.
€€€€BakeryLions Square
Phyllosophies keeps prices low on Lions Square in Heraklion, where a bougatsa or a hand-opened greens pie costs less than a coffee elsewhere.
OrderBougatsa with sweet myzithra, honey and walnuts
TipThe savoury chortopites and tyropites cost about the same as the sweet bougatsa and travel better in a bag.