German€€€neustadt
Deichgraf on the historic Deichstrasse in Hamburg's Neustadt cooks traditional Hanseatic dishes on the city's oldest canal-side street, rebuilt.
Order: The Labskaus with Rollmops; the Aalsuppe with raisins.
Tip: Ask for a window table on the Nikolaifleet canal side. A single beam from the pre-fire building survives in the Fleetdiele dining room.
Modern European Bistro€€€Eimsbuttel
Gsellmanns in Hamburg Eimsbuttel runs an elevated bistro on Eppendorfer Weg. Priced at €€€. Kitchen leans modern european bistro. At Eppendorfer Weg 98.
Signature: Daily-changing bistro plates, Regional and seasonal mains
French Bistro€€€Sternschanze
Bistro Carmagnole in Hamburg's Sternschanze cooks French bistro classics off a daily blackboard on Juliusstrasse. Priced at €€€. At Juliusstrasse 18.
Signature: French bistro classics, Daily blackboard plats
German€€neustadt
Old Commercial Room opposite the Michel in Hamburg has cooked Hanseatic harbour food since 1795 and is the city's canonical Labskaus address.
Order: The Original Hamburger Labskaus with fried egg, herring, beetroot and gherkin.
Tip: Open daily; lunch tables more available than dinner. Cash welcome but cards accepted.
Modern German€€€sternschanze
Tim Maelzer and Patrick Ruether's Bullerei in Hamburg's Sternschanze has cooked grilled meats and modern German in the old slaughterhouse since 2009.
Order: The dry-aged rib-eye and the seasonal handmade pasta.
Tip: Daily 12:00-23:00. Tables on the courtyard fill first in summer.
Japanese sushi€€€altona
Werner and Steffen Henssler's Hamburg sushi room on Grosse Elbstrasse runs a 20-metre open kitchen above the Fischmarkt, the family's Cuisine Pacifique.
Order: The California-style maki and the teriyaki Faroe salmon.
Tip: Walk-up counter seats open at 18:00; arrive before to skip the wait.