Standl 20 inside Berlin's Markthalle Neun in Kreuzberg cooks a modern-German lunch counter from market stalls around it; the Sunday roast runs from 13:00.
Signature dishes: Brandenburg trout, Pork-shoulder Sunday roast
Must order: The Brandenburg trout with brown butter; the Sunday pork-shoulder roast with kraut.
Tip: Lunch only, market hours. Sunday roast from 13:00 is the room's headline; arrive early.
Address: Eisenbahnstrasse 42-43, 10997 Berlin
Panama on Berlin's Potsdamer Strasse cooks a modern-European tasting in a former workshop courtyard; the dining room and garden share 60 covers with natural wine.
Signature: Whole sea bass, Smoked-trout tart
Order: The seven-course tasting at EUR 115; the whole sea bass for two is the signature main.
Tip: Garden in summer is the best seating; book three weeks ahead online via the booking page.
The Bird on Berlin's Am Falkplatz has cooked dry-aged ribeye and burgers in a New York-style room since 2008; the bourbon list runs to 60 bottles, the soundtrack runs loud.
Signature: Dry-aged ribeye, New York cheesecake
Order: The 300g dry-aged ribeye with truffle butter; the New York cheesecake for dessert.
Tip: No-frills, cash-friendly, loud. The 22:00 second seating is easier than the 19:30 wave.
Rogacki on Berlin's Wilmersdorfer Strasse has run a counter-style deli since 1932 with smoked fish, eel, sausages and the standing Aalsuppe bowl locals queue for daily.
Signature: Eel sandwich, Aalsuppe (eel soup)
Order: The smoked eel sandwich and the Aalsuppe (eel soup) at the standing counter.
Tip: Counter-only, no reservations. Closed Sunday. Aalsuppe runs daily from 11:00.
Monsieur Vuong on Berlin's Alte Schoenhauser Strasse has cooked the city's reference Vietnamese pho since 1999; the menu is one chalkboard, the room runs 60 covers.
Signature: Pho bo, Summer rolls
Order: The pho bo with rare beef; the summer rolls with peanut sauce as a starter.
Tip: No reservations. Arrive before 12:30 or 19:00 to skip the queue; cash and card accepted.
Henne Alt-Berliner Wirtshaus on Berlin's Leuschnerdamm has cooked one dish since 1907: a milk-fed roast half-chicken with kraut salad and bread, served in the original tavern.
Signature: Half a roast chicken, Kraut salad
Order: The half-chicken with the kraut salad and rye bread; the only choice on the menu.
Tip: Closed Monday. Bookings two weeks ahead by phone; ask for the original 1907 dining room when booking.
Max und Moritz on Berlin's Oranienstrasse has cooked Prussian tavern classics since 1902 in the original ceramic-tiled dining room; the Klopse and rouladen anchor the menu.
Signature: Koenigsberger Klopse, Beef rouladen
Order: The Koenigsberger Klopse with caper-cream sauce; the beef rouladen with red cabbage in winter.
Tip: Closed Monday lunch. The original 1902 dining room is the seating to book; phone two weeks out.
