The counters in Paris worth queuing for: bread, pastry, and the morning ritual.
Bakery counters in Paris worth queuing for: levain breads, laminated pastry, regional bakes and the morning ritual.
Christophe Vasseur's Du Pain et des Idées in Paris's 10e remains the boulangerie every other counter measures itself against. At 34 Rue Yves Toudic.
Tip: Closed weekends. Arrive before 09:00 for the pain des amis; escargots sell out by 13:00.
Worth the queue: Escargot pistache-chocolat
Poilâne in Paris has baked a signature sourdough miche from a wood-fired oven on Rue du Cherche-Midi since 1932. Booking recommended. Reservations advised.
Tip: The half-miche feeds two for a week. Ask for the cocktail-size punitions at the till.
Worth the queue: Pain Poilâne miche
Utopie in Paris's 11e is the modern boulangerie Sebastien Bruno and Erwan Blanche built into a black-fronted shop with the city's best black-sesame baguette.
Tip: Cash and card both work. The flan vanille is the second pick after the sesame baguette.
Worth the queue: Sesame baguette
Cédric Grolet Opéra in Paris is the chef's lemon-fruit-and-flowers museum: every cake a sculpted trompe-l'œil fruit, priced at €18 to €25 a piece.
Tip: Queue starts at 11:30 for the 12:00 opening; book online to skip it for the citron tart.
Worth the queue: Trompe-l'œil fruit
Liberté Pâtisserie Boulangerie in Paris's 10e is Benoît Castel's open-kitchen counter where the bakery floor doubles as the eat-in dining room from 09:00.
Tip: The Paris-Brest individual size is €6; the cake-by-the-slice in the back room runs half that price.
Worth the queue: Paris-Brest
Claire Damon's Des Gâteaux et du Pain in Paris's 15e is the pastry-architect shop where every tart is signed off as a numbered edition, on display.
Tip: Closed Monday. The Mont-Blanc is autumn-only; the strawberry tart anchors the summer carte.
Worth the queue: Le Mont-Blanc
Mamiche in Paris's 9e is the Cécile Khayat and Victoria Effantin counter that brought New York-Israeli babka to Pigalle. Open tue-sat 07:30-20:00.
Tip: Closed Sunday and Monday. Order ahead by phone for a whole babka loaf to take home.
Worth the queue: Cinnamon babka
Maison Aleph in Paris is Myriam Sabet's Aleppine pastry counter on Rue de la Verrerie: kataifi nests filled to order, dusted with ground pistachio.
Tip: The nids de pistache are the dish; the rose-water éclair is the second pick.
Worth the queue: Nids de pistache
Fabrice le Bourdat's Blé Sucré in Paris's 12e is the bakery David Lebovitz once nominated for the city's best madeleine. At 7 Rue Antoine Vollon.
Tip: Closed Monday. Buy six madeleines in a paper bag; the orange-glazed ones travel best.
Worth the queue: Madeleine
Stohrer in Paris is the city's oldest patisserie, founded in 1730 by Nicolas Stohrer who served Marie Leszczyńska at Versailles. Open daily 07:30-20:30.
Tip: The original puits d'amour and the baba travel well. The whipped-cream cake is best in shop.
Worth the queue: Baba au rhum
Boulangerie Pâtisserie l'Équilibre in Paris's 15e occupies an 1889 Monument Historique storefront on rue Blomet. At 108 Rue Blomet. Booking recommended.
Tip: Closed Sunday and Monday. The Pain Suisse with its puff-pastry layers is the room's signature, baked through the morning.
Worth the queue: Pain Suisse
Boulangerie BO in Paris's 12e is Olivier Haustraete's listed-monument boulangerie by Marché d'Aligre, baking organic baguette tradition and Tokyo-honed.
Tip: The cherry-blossom Mont Blanc in spring is the seasonal pick; the baguette tradition is the everyday order.
Worth the queue: Baguette tradition