Lamb's lettuce is the emblem of Nantes market gardening, protected by IGP and grown under low shelters on a bed of sand. In the city it is a winter salad with walnuts, apple and a mustard vinaigrette.
Mâche is small, dark, nutty and faintly sweet, and Loire-Atlantique grows more of it than anywhere else in France. That leadership came from a technique rather than luck: Nantes market gardeners worked out a sous-abris system in which the soil is covered with roughly a centimetre of sand, which warms faster and helps the seed germinate evenly. The protected zone for Mâche Nantaise IGP covers more than 200 communes across Loire-Atlantique, Maine-et-Loire and the Vendée. The season opens in autumn and runs through winter, and the classic Nantes plate pairs the leaf with walnuts and apple.