Oysters from the shallow bay south of the Loire estuary, shucked on the fish rows at Talensac and stacked on brasserie plateaux through the cold months with a glass of Muscadet beside them.

The bay of Bourgneuf sits between the southern edge of the estuary and the Île de Noirmoutier, a wide shallow basin of tidal flats worked for shellfish for centuries and for salt long before that. Its oysters are the ones a Nantes brasserie means when it puts a plateau de fruits de mer on the table, and they arrive at their best through autumn and winter. The pairing with Muscadet is not marketing: the saline, low-alcohol, faintly prickly sur lie style really does hold up against a raw oyster better than most whites.

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