A long ridged doughnut of wheat and chickpea flour, fragrant with orange-blossom water, deep-fried in olive oil until shatteringly crisp and rolled in caster sugar. The L'Estaque seaside snack since 1907.

Chichis frégis were popularised in 1907 by Alexis Guglielmi in Toulon and migrated up the coast to L'Estaque in the 1930s, where the fishing-village stalls turned them into the canonical Marseille beach snack. Chez Magali, run by the Magali Pisciotto family, still cooks them in 20-litre olive oil cauldrons at the L'Estaque seafront. The Sunday-afternoon queue is unchanged across generations.

3 editor picks for Chichi Frégi in Marseille, ranked by editorial score. All Marseille signature dishes · Chichi Frégi across every city.