Calanques National Park (cove cabanons) ★ 4.4
The Calanques between Marseille and Cassis run a handful of cabanon kitchens like Le Chateau and Le Bistrot in Sormiou, grilled fish on the rocks with sea-side terraces accessible May to September.
Saintes-Maries-de-la-Mer in the Camargue delta is the rice country, Le Clos du Rhone and Mas Saint Bertrand cooking bull-stew gardiane with red rice and sea bream with the rice.
The Calanques between Marseille and Cassis run a handful of cabanon kitchens like Le Chateau and Le Bistrot in Sormiou, grilled fish on the rocks with sea-side terraces accessible May to September.
The Cote Bleue west of Marseille runs from L'Estaque (Chez Magali panisses since 1947) out to Sausset-les-Pins, the oursin season September to April the reason to come in winter.
Cassis 22km east of Marseille is the port town with four bouillabaisse rooms on the harbour, Chez Gilbert the canonical reference, plus AOC Cassis white from the surrounding hills.
Aix-en-Provence 30km north of Marseille runs a daily food market at Place Richelme from 8am to 1pm, plus the bigger Tue, Thu and Sat extension at Place des Precheurs for spices and produce.
Aubagne 17km east of Marseille is Marcel Pagnol's hometown and the santon capital of Provence, the Tuesday food market and the santon workshops the two reasons to make the trip.