Toast Skagen is shrimp tossed in mayonnaise and dill on grilled white bread, topped with bleak roe (löjrom) and lemon. Tore Wretman improvised the dish on a sailing trip near Skagen, Denmark in 1956 and put it on the menu at his Stockholm restaurant Riche in 1958.
Where to eat it: 5 restaurants across 1 city.
Tore Wretman, the Stockholm restaurateur who modernised Swedish cuisine, improvised Toast Skagen in 1956 on a sailing trip to the northern Danish port of Skagen and named the dish for the harbour. He introduced it to the public at Riche in Stockholm in 1958, then carried it across to Operakällaren after taking over that restaurant. The dish became the codified Swedish smörgåsbord starter and now appears on every brasserie menu. Sturehof and Lisa Elmqvist both cook the canonical version with bleak roe (löjrom) from Bothnian-coast fisheries; the lemon and dill garnish is the universal finish.
Common allergens: Gluten, Egg, Shellfish, Fish
Tip from the editors. Use the small cold-water shrimp from Sweden or Norway, not warm-water king prawns; sweetness and texture are completely different.
This is the TableJourney editorial recipe, modelled on the canonical bistro / counter version. The first place to try the dish in its city of origin is below.
Sturehof at Stureplan in Stockholm's Östermalm is the 1897 brasserie locals run on; oysters, Toast Skagen, herring boards and a 365-day kitchen until 02:00.
Signature: Skagenröra Toast Skagen with bleak roe, Pickled herring board with snaps
Order: Toast Skagen and a half-dozen oysters at the counter; the snaps tray is the table ritual.
Tip: The bar counter is walk-in until late. The Vita Bar room is the quieter sit-down table.
Lisa Elmqvist at Östermalms Saluhall in Stockholm has run a fishmonger and counter restaurant since 1926; oysters, Toast Skagen and the saluhall shellfish platters.
Signature: Shellfish platter, Toast Skagen with bleak roe
Order: The shellfish platter for two and a glass of dry Champagne.
Tip: Lunch is the better sit. Closed Sunday; closes at 18:00 Saturday.
Wedholms Fisk on Nybrokajen in Stockholm's Norrmalm cooks the canonical Swedish seafood menu; sole meunière, smoked salmon and Janssons frestelse on a single sheet.
Signature: Sole meunière, Wedholms Janssons frestelse
Order: Whole sole filleted at the table with the house Janssons frestelse on the side.
Tip: Closed Sunday and Monday. The corner window seats look across the bay to the Royal Palace.
Operakällaren in Stockholm's Royal Opera House has cooked classical European food since 1787, with one Michelin star and Emanuel Tärnqvist's tasting room.
Order: The classic tasting in the main dining room; the Operakällaren wagon of cheese is part of the table service.
Tip: Closes 2027 for a five-year Opera House renovation. Book before December if you want the heritage room before it goes dark.
Den Gyldene Freden on Österlånggatan in Stockholm's Gamla Stan opened in 1722 and remains the oldest restaurant in continuous operation under the same name in the world.
Signature: Wallenbergare veal patty with mash, Janssons frestelse anchovy potato
Order: Wallenbergare with pea purée, lingonberry and brown butter potatoes.
Tip: Closed Sunday and Monday. The vaulted cellar is the heritage room; the upstairs table runs quieter.
More cities are in research. Want toast skagen covered somewhere specific? Tell us where you want to eat.