El Merendero de Antonio Martín ★ 4.0
El Merendero de Antonio Martín is a historic seafront restaurant on Málaga's Malagueta, a Grupo Gorki dining room for fried fish and sea views.
The Andalusian fried-fish platter in its Málaga form: small fish dusted in flour and flash-fried in hot olive oil until light and crisp, from anchovies and red mullet to squid and whitebait.
Where to eat it: 8 restaurants across 2 cities.
Pescaíto frito spread from Málaga and Cádiz across Andalusia in the 19th century, a way to make the cheap, small fish of the daily catch go far. The technique hinges on a special coarse flour, harina de fritura, and very hot olive oil that seals the fish in seconds without greasiness. In Málaga the classic mix is the fritura malagueña, a mixed fry of anchovies, squid, small red mullet and whitebait. It remains the standard order at every seafront chiringuito and old-town taberna.
Common allergens: Fish, Gluten
Tip from the editors. Dry fish and truly hot oil are everything; wet fish or a cool pan gives you soggy, greasy fritura.
El Merendero de Antonio Martín is a historic seafront restaurant on Málaga's Malagueta, a Grupo Gorki dining room for fried fish and sea views.
Los Mellizos brings the family's Rincón de la Victoria seafood to central Málaga on Calle Sancha de Lara, all fried fish, clams and rice from the bay.
Marisquería Godoy sits on Málaga's Muelle Uno, a portside seafood house serving fried fish, red Motril prawns and rice with the bay in full view.
El Tintero is Málaga's singing-waiter chiringuito in El Palo, where fried fish and espetos are auctioned aloud and you grab plates as they fly past.
Order: Whatever the waiters are shouting: grab the fried fish as it passes
Casa Modesto on Calle Cano y Cueto in Seville is the Modesto family's fried-fish flagship since 1971, with the city's canonical pescaito frito.
Signature: Pescaito frito, Cazon en adobo, Tortillitas de camarones
Order: The pescaito frito mixed plate and the tortillitas de camarones, with a glass of manzanilla.
Tip: Open daily 12:00-17:00 and 20:00-00:30. The downstairs bar is the working-day spot; the upstairs dining room takes reservations.
Freiduria Puerta de la Carne on Calle Puerta de la Carne in Seville is the takeaway pescaito frito counter since the 1950s, with paper cones of cazon en.
Try: Cazon en adobo paper cone
Tip: Order at the counter, takeaway only; eat at the standing bar or take to the riverbank.
Bodega Santa Cruz, called Las Columnas, runs the city's canonical montaditos in Seville's Santa Cruz for 2 to 2.50 euros each, with a standing-room counter.
Try: Montaditos under 2.50 euros each
Tip: Standing only; six montaditos and two canas land around 12 euros for two. Cash and card accepted.
Manolo Leon on Calle Guadalquivir in Seville is the Manolo Leon family's flagship since 1995, with an Andalusian carte built on Iberico pork.
Signature: Solomillo iberico, Pescaito frito, Salmorejo
Order: The solomillo iberico over potato puree and the pescaito frito mixed plate.
Tip: Open daily 13:00-16:30 and 20:30-24:00. The Guadalquivir location is the larger room; reserve the patio for Sunday lunch.
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