History

Pescaíto frito spread from Málaga and Cádiz across Andalusia in the 19th century, a way to make the cheap, small fish of the daily catch go far. The technique hinges on a special coarse flour, harina de fritura, and very hot olive oil that seals the fish in seconds without greasiness. In Málaga the classic mix is the fritura malagueña, a mixed fry of anchovies, squid, small red mullet and whitebait. It remains the standard order at every seafront chiringuito and old-town taberna.

Common allergens: Fish, Gluten

Make it at home

Yield Serves 4Hands-on 25 minTotal 30 minDifficulty Intermediate

Ingredients

  • 600g mixed small fish: anchovies, small squid, whitebait, small red mullet
  • 200g coarse fry flour (harina de fritura) or semolina flour
  • 1 litre mild olive oil for frying
  • Sea salt
  • Lemon wedges to serve

Method

  1. Clean the fish, pat very dry and season lightly with salt.
  2. Heat the olive oil in a deep pan to 180C.
  3. Toss the fish in the flour, then shake off every loose grain in a sieve.
  4. Fry in small batches for 1 to 2 minutes until pale gold, never crowding the pan.
  5. Lift onto paper, salt at once and serve immediately with lemon.

Tip from the editors. Dry fish and truly hot oil are everything; wet fish or a cool pan gives you soggy, greasy fritura.

Where to eat pescaito frito

Pescaito Frito in Málaga

Los Mellizos ★ 4.1

Seafood€€€centro-historicoSun-Fri 13:00-17:30, 19:00-23:15; Sat 13:00-23:15

Los Mellizos brings the family's Rincón de la Victoria seafood to central Málaga on Calle Sancha de Lara, all fried fish, clams and rice from the bay.

El Tintero ★ 4.3

Seafood€€el-paloDaily 12:00-00:00

El Tintero is Málaga's singing-waiter chiringuito in El Palo, where fried fish and espetos are auctioned aloud and you grab plates as they fly past.

Order: Whatever the waiters are shouting: grab the fried fish as it passes

All Málaga signature dishes →

Pescaito Frito in Seville

Casa Modesto ★ 4.2

Andalusian Seafood€€€santa-cruz

Casa Modesto on Calle Cano y Cueto in Seville is the Modesto family's fried-fish flagship since 1971, with the city's canonical pescaito frito.

Signature: Pescaito frito, Cazon en adobo, Tortillitas de camarones

Order: The pescaito frito mixed plate and the tortillitas de camarones, with a glass of manzanilla.

Tip: Open daily 12:00-17:00 and 20:00-00:30. The downstairs bar is the working-day spot; the upstairs dining room takes reservations.

Freiduria Puerta de la Carne ★ 4.2

Filipino

Freiduria Puerta de la Carne on Calle Puerta de la Carne in Seville is the takeaway pescaito frito counter since the 1950s, with paper cones of cazon en.

Try: Cazon en adobo paper cone

Tip: Order at the counter, takeaway only; eat at the standing bar or take to the riverbank.

Bodega Santa Cruz Las Columnas ★ 4.4

Spanish tapas

Bodega Santa Cruz, called Las Columnas, runs the city's canonical montaditos in Seville's Santa Cruz for 2 to 2.50 euros each, with a standing-room counter.

Try: Montaditos under 2.50 euros each

Tip: Standing only; six montaditos and two canas land around 12 euros for two. Cash and card accepted.

Manolo Leon ★ 4.5

Andalusian€€€san-bernardo

Manolo Leon on Calle Guadalquivir in Seville is the Manolo Leon family's flagship since 1995, with an Andalusian carte built on Iberico pork.

Signature: Solomillo iberico, Pescaito frito, Salmorejo

Order: The solomillo iberico over potato puree and the pescaito frito mixed plate.

Tip: Open daily 13:00-16:30 and 20:30-24:00. The Guadalquivir location is the larger room; reserve the patio for Sunday lunch.

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