Pani puri
Photo: Gaurav Dhwaj Khadka · CC BY-SA 4.0

History

Pani puri came to Mumbai via Marwari and Gujarati street vendors during the early 20th century. The Mumbai version uses sweet tamarind-date water and spicy mint-coriander water served from two separate jugs, with carts assembling each puri to order. Chowpatty and Juhu beaches remain the canonical street venues; sit-down rooms like Elco in Bandra serve the cleaner sit-down setup with bottled water for those wary of street ice.

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Common allergens: Gluten

Make it at home

Yield Serves 4 (40 puris)Hands-on 30 minTotal 60 minDifficulty Intermediate

Ingredients

  • 40 hollow puris (best bought, hard to make at home)
  • 3 boiled potatoes, mashed roughly
  • 100g chickpeas, boiled and salted
  • 1 small onion, chopped fine (optional)
  • 200g fresh mint
  • 100g fresh coriander
  • 4 green chillies
  • 1 inch ginger
  • 1 teaspoon roasted cumin powder
  • 1 teaspoon chaat masala
  • 1 teaspoon black salt
  • 1 tablespoon tamarind paste
  • 1 tablespoon jaggery
  • 1.5 litres cold water
  • 100ml tamarind chutney for filling

Method

  1. Blend mint, coriander, green chilli, ginger and 200ml water into a smooth paste.
  2. Pass through a fine strainer into a large jug.
  3. Stir in 1.5 litres cold water, roasted cumin powder, chaat masala, black salt, tamarind paste and jaggery.
  4. Refrigerate at least 30 minutes; the pani must be ice cold.
  5. Combine mashed potato, chickpeas and chopped onion for the filling.
  6. To serve: poke a hole in the top of each puri, fill with potato mixture and a drop of tamarind chutney.
  7. Dunk into the cold mint water and eat in one bite immediately.

Tip from the editors. Drink the leftover pani at the end; it's the chaat-eater's reward and tradition. Eat each puri in one go; otherwise it goes soggy.

Where to eat pani puri

Pani puri in Mumbai

Chowpatty Beach Bhel and Chaat Carts ★ 4.4

$ Street foodChowpattyCash only

Chowpatty Beach sunset means dozens of bhel and chaat carts firing up. Bhel puri, sev puri, pani puri, dahi puri from numbered carts down the promenade.

OrderA round of bhel puri followed by pani puri.

TipCart numbers 1 to 10 are the established ones; cash easiest.

Juhu Beach Chaat ★ 4.3

$ Street foodJuhuCash only

Juhu Beach's evening chaat strip runs from sundown until past midnight. Pav bhaji on butter griddles, dahi puri assembled to order, ragda pattice and bhel.

OrderRagda pattice and a round of dahi puri.

TipCart numbers 11 to 20 are the established ones; cash easiest, ask for the spice level.

Elco Restaurant and Market ★ 4.4

$ Street foodBandra West

Elco on Hill Road has been the Bandra chaat benchmark for decades. The pani puri counter is at the front, the seated restaurant at the back.

OrderPani puri with sweet and spicy waters, then a ragda pattice.

TipCounter service is fastest; the upstairs seating fills at weekends.

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