History

The oreillette belongs to the family of pre-Lent fritters found right across southern Europe, from Italian chiacchiere to Spanish orejas, and the name simply means little ear. The Languedoc version is rolled thinner than most, sometimes to the point of translucency, and flavoured with orange-flower water rather than lemon. Traditionally they were made at home in the days before Ash Wednesday to use up eggs and fat, and a household would turn out enough for the whole street. Montpellier bakeries put them out through January and February, and they are gone from the counters by the time Easter arrives.

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Common allergens: Gluten, Eggs, Dairy

Where to eat oreillettes

Oreillettes in Montpellier

Maison Bonnaire ★ 4.3

€€ BakeryBakery, pastry and chocolate on Rue Saint-GuilhemÉcussonWalk-in only

Maison Bonnaire runs a bakery and pastry counter at 45 Rue Saint-Guilhem in Montpellier, with its chocolate shop further up the same street at number 62.

Worth the queueÉclairs

TipThe éclair range rotates; the chocolate boutique at number 62 keeps different, shorter hours than the bakery.

Maison Scholler ★ 4.1

€€ BakeryEntremets, flans and travel cakes since 1962Les ArceauxWalk-in only

Maison Scholler has been a pillar of Montpellier pâtisserie since 1962, vanilla and pistachio flans at 7 euros beside entremets and travel cakes.

Worth the queueVanilla flan

TipThe Avenue de Lodève shop is the handy branch for the Arceaux market; a second Scholler bakes out in Aiguelongue.

Halles Castellane ★ 4.5

Écusson

Halles Castellane is Montpellier's iron-and-glass central market on Rue de la Loge, 25 stalls of cheese, oysters and produce a minute from the Comédie.

TipSeveral stalls shuck Bouzigues oysters to eat on the spot with a glass of Picpoul; go before noon for the full spread.

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