Hafız Mustafa 1864 ★ 4.3
Hafız Mustafa 1864 on Hamidiye Caddesi, the original Sultan Abdülaziz-era confectioner still rolling lokum and laminated baklava in Eminönü over a 160-year.
Worth the queue: Pomegranate Turkish delight
History
Künefe is the canonical Levantine cheese pastry, with Antakya (Hatay) in southern Turkey claiming the strongest version; the pastry arrived in Istanbul's Beyoğlu kitchens through the 20th century as the city's southern-Turkish community grew. The dish uses Hatay's distinctive unsalted whey cheese for its stretchy melt, sandwiched between layers of crisp kataifi pastry. Hafız Mustafa, Saray Muhallebicisi and the Beyoğlu dessert houses all serve the version with kaymak (Turkish clotted cream).
Common allergens: Gluten, Dairy, Tree nuts
Make it at home
Ingredients
- 300g kataifi (shredded filo pastry), thawed if frozen
- 150g unsalted butter, melted (Turkish butter or ghee ideally)
- 400g unsalted Hatay cheese (peynir), or substitute desalted mozzarella plus 100g halloumi soaked in cold water for 1 hour
- For the syrup: 300g caster sugar
- 250ml water
- 1 tablespoon lemon juice
- 1 teaspoon rose water (optional)
- 100g pistachios, finely crushed
- 200g kaymak or thick clotted cream to serve
- A 22cm copper or non-stick pan
Method
- Make the syrup first: combine sugar, water and lemon juice in a pan. Bring to the boil and simmer 5 minutes until slightly syrupy. Stir in rose water if using and cool completely.
- Spread the kataifi in a large bowl. Pour the melted butter over and rub firmly with your fingers to coat every strand evenly.
- Press half the kataifi into a buttered 22cm copper pan, covering the base and pressing down firmly to form a dense layer 1cm thick.
- Slice or grate the cheese (if using mozzarella plus halloumi, drain and slice) and spread evenly over the kataifi base, staying 1cm from the edges.
- Cover with the remaining kataifi, pressing firmly to seal the edges and compact the layers.
- Place the pan over medium heat. Cook 6 to 8 minutes, pressing down occasionally, until the underside turns deep golden brown.
- Cover the pan with a flat plate larger than the rim. Invert quickly to flip the künefe onto the plate.
- Slide it back into the pan, browned-side-up. Cook the other side 5 to 6 minutes more until equally golden.
- Slide onto a serving plate. Pour the cold syrup all over the hot künefe; it will hiss and absorb.
- Scatter crushed pistachios across the top and serve immediately with a generous dollop of kaymak.
Tip from the editors. The cheese must be unsalted and stretchy; salted halloumi or feta will be wrong.
Where to eat künefe
Künefe in Istanbul
Saray Muhallebicisi ★ 4.0
Saray Muhallebicisi on Istiklal, the 1935 muhallebici keeping milk puddings, kazandibi and tavuk göğsü flowing for late Beyoğlu walkers until 02:00.
Try: Tavuk göğsü chicken-breast pudding
Karaköy Güllüoğlu ★ 4.6
Karaköy Güllüoğlu, the 1949 baklava counter on Rıhtım still cutting pistachio baklava with a scoop of clotted cream until midnight for after-dinner Karaköy.
Try: Pistachio baklava with kaymak
More cities are in research. Want künefe covered somewhere specific? Tell us where you want to eat.