Kashubian fish soup (Zupa rybna po kaszubsku)
Photo: MOs810 · CC BY-SA 4.0

History

The Kashubian fishing villages have built fish soup on whatever the day's catch yielded; the cream-and-mussel version solidified in Gdańsk restaurants through the Free City era between the two World Wars. The base is always cod, Baltic herring or pike-perch trimmings, slow-simmered with leek, carrot, potato and a finishing splash of cream. Witómë and Restauracja Filharmonia run the most committed versions today, with seasonal additions of fresh mussels when the boats land them.

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Warsaw

Guided tour · 3h 30m

Warsaw: Polish Food Tour

The Polish food tour is a great way to experience a must-try cuisine of this amazing country. A professional guide will teach you all there is to...

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Common allergens: Fish, Shellfish, Dairy, Egg

Make it at home

Yield 6Hands-on 35 minTotal 1 hr 30 minDifficulty Intermediate

Ingredients

  • 1 whole white fish (cod or pike-perch) head plus 400g fish bones (for stock)
  • 2 litres cold water
  • 1 large leek, white only, sliced
  • 2 medium carrots, sliced
  • 1 small parsley root, peeled and sliced
  • 1 small celeriac chunk (about 100g), peeled and diced
  • 1 onion, halved
  • 2 bay leaves
  • 10 whole allspice berries
  • 1 tbsp black peppercorns
  • 400g floury potatoes, peeled and diced
  • 400g mixed Baltic white fish fillet (cod, pike-perch, haddock), pin-boned, cut into 3cm chunks
  • 200g cleaned mussels (optional, in season)
  • 200ml double cream
  • 2 egg yolks
  • 1 tbsp white wine vinegar
  • Salt and white pepper
  • 1 bunch dill, finely chopped, to serve

Method

  1. Place the fish head and bones in a stockpot with the cold water, leek, half the carrots, parsley root, celeriac, onion halves, bay, allspice and peppercorns. Bring to a bare simmer and cook 35 minutes, skimming.
  2. Strain through a fine sieve, discarding solids. Return the clear stock to a clean pot.
  3. Add the potatoes and the remaining carrot to the stock. Simmer 15 minutes until the potatoes are tender.
  4. Slip the fish chunks into the simmering stock. Cook 4 minutes until just opaque. Add the mussels if using; cover and cook 3 more minutes until they open.
  5. Whisk the egg yolks with the cream and vinegar in a small bowl.
  6. Take the pot off the heat. Ladle two ladles of hot stock into the cream mixture, whisking, to temper.
  7. Pour the tempered cream back into the soup, stirring gently. Do not boil after this step or the egg will curdle.
  8. Season with salt and white pepper. Serve in deep bowls with a generous scatter of dill.

Tip from the editors. The egg-yolk-and-cream finish is the Kashubian distinction; without it you have generic fish soup. Vinegar before the cream stops the yolks setting.

Where to eat kashubian fish soup (zupa rybna po kaszubsku)

Kashubian fish soup (Zupa rybna po kaszubsku) in Gdańsk

Witómë ★ 4.3

$$ Modern Polish

Witómë on Piwna behind St Mary's is Gdańsk's centrally-located Kashubian dining room plating the regional fish soup and a 07:30 breakfast counter.

Why locals goThe only centrally-located Kashubian dining room left, on Piwna behind St Mary's; visitors hunting regional fish soup walk past the Piwna door for the louder Długa rooms.

TipOrder the Kashubian fish soup; the breakfast counter opens 07:30 and is the calmest service.

Directions

Restauracja Filharmonia ★ 4.2

$$ Modern Polish

Restauracja Filharmonia is a modern polish room in Gdansk. Cross from Długie Pobrzeże; the dining-room view back to the Old Town is the trip.

Why locals goOn Ołowianka Island opposite the Old Town, reached by a footbridge most visitors skip; the most committed Kashubian kitchen in the centre.

TipCross from Długie Pobrzeże; the dining-room view back to the Old Town is the trip.

Directions

Targ Rybny - Fishmarkt ★ 4.2

$$ SeafoodUntil Mon-Sun 24:00

Targ Rybny - Fishmarkt in Gdańsk runs a midnight close every day, the latest-serving proper seafood kitchen in the centre. Smoked eel, oysters, Baltic fish.

TrySeafood plates

TipLast orders 23:30 for kitchen; the bar runs until midnight Kitchen close differs from bar close.

Directions Book

Cała Naprzód ★ 4.0

$$ Polish SeafoodMain Town

Cała Naprzód in Gdańsk crowns the Maritime Culture Centre on Tokarska with a fourth-floor terrace beside the medieval Crane. Located in Main Town.

OrderPike-perch fillet with spinach and cauliflower, or the pike-perch and smoked-trout pierogi.

TipTake the museum's central glass lift directly to the fourth floor.

Directions Book

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