Córdoba's churro, piped in one continuous loop rather than short sticks, fried in a shallow pan and cut to length with scissors. Eaten first thing with a cup of very thick chocolate.
Where to eat it: 4 restaurants across 1 city.
The jeringo takes its name from the jeringa, the syringe-shaped press the dough is squeezed through, and the Córdoba version differs from the Madrid churro in shape and thickness: a single wide spiral, cut to order, with a chewier interior. Churrerías here open before dawn and shut by early afternoon, and a handful reopen for the merienda around 17:00. The dough is flour, water and salt and nothing else, which is why the frying temperature does all the work. The city's remaining counters, from Santos Mártires by the Alcázar to the neighbourhood shops in San Andrés, all run the same short trading window.
Common allergens: Gluten
Tip from the editors. The oil must be at 190C. Below that the dough drinks oil and the jeringos come out heavy and greasy.
Churrería Victoria is the Spanish answer to brunch in Córdoba, jeringos and chocolate from 07:30 on Avenida Doctor Fleming, then again at merienda time.
Order: Jeringos with thick chocolate, the Córdoba breakfast in its plainest form.
Tip: This is Spanish breakfast rather than Anglo brunch; expect no eggs, no avocado and standing room only.
Churrería Arroyo de San Andrés fries jeringos in a residential corner of Córdoba, shutting by early afternoon six days a week and closed on Mondays.
Why locals love it: It is a morning-only, closed-Monday counter in a residential barrio, and its product is the Córdoba jeringo rather than the generic churro.
Tip: Everything is finished by 14:00, which is exactly why the Judería crowd never make it here.
Churrería Santos Mártires works a kiosk facing the Alcázar in Córdoba and trades in a four-and-a-half-hour window before packing up at midday.
Try: Churros with chocolate
Order: Churros and chocolate, eaten on a bench facing the Alcázar walls.
Tip: The window is 07:30 to 12:00 flat, so this is a stop before the Alcázar rather than after it.
Mojaelchurro fries organic churros and sopaipas a street from the Mezquita in Córdoba, opening at 07:30 and shutting the fryer again at 13:00.
Try: Sopaipas and churros
Order: Sopaipas, the flatter Andalusian fried dough that most visitors never order.
Tip: Mornings only. If you plan a churro stop for the afternoon here you will find the shutters down.
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