Belgian raw beef tartare prepared brasserie-style: hand-chopped raw sirloin or rump mixed with mayonnaise, capers, gherkins, mustard, parsley and onion, served as a topping on bread or with fries.
Where to eat it: 8 restaurants across 2 cities.
Filet americain is the Belgian (rather than American) take on steak tartare, codified in the early 20th century in Brussels brasseries. The dish differs from French tartare in that mayonnaise is the structural binder rather than raw egg yolk, giving a creamier, more spread-like texture; the Belgian version is also served on bread (broodje filet americain) far more commonly than as a stand-alone plate. By the 1950s every Belgian brasserie ran a version. Bruges spots like Bistro Refter, Den Amand and Cantine Copine serve the canonical preparation, often as a starter with fries and a glass of strong Belgian ale. Some Brussels rooms still mix it tableside in front of the diner.
Common allergens: Egg, Mustard
Tip from the editors. Beef freshness and chop technique are the dish; use a trusted butcher with rapid-turnover prime rump. Chop immediately before serving, never in advance, or the meat oxidises and turns brown. Do not stir aggressively when combining; the texture should remain coarse and visible.
Bistro Refter in Bruges is Geert Van Hecke's contemporary bistro on Molenmeers, the relaxed counterpart to his fine-dining room. Good food at fair prices.
Signature: Daily bistro menu, Regional plates
Order: The daily three-course menu; it is the value way into Van Hecke's cooking.
Tip: Book ahead, the dining room fills fast at lunch. It sits near the Sint-Anna quarter.
Cantine Copine on Steenkaai in Bruges is Karen Keygnaert's relaxed gastronomic room, opened after she left a starred format to cook no-nonsense food.
Signature: Daily gastronomic menu, Seasonal plates
Order: The daily set menu; Keygnaert keeps it short and produce-led.
Tip: It sits north-west of the centre near the canal, a short ride out. Closed Sunday and Monday.
Den Amand is a small family bistro off the Markt in Bruges, on car-free Sint-Amandsstraat, where Ann Vissers cooks seasonal vegetable, fish and meat dishes.
Signature: Seasonal vegetable plates, Fish and meat of the day
Order: Whatever the monthly menu is built around; vegetables get a generous hand here.
Tip: Closed Wednesday and Sunday. The room is tiny, so reserve, especially in summer.
Gran Kaffee De Passage on Dweersstraat in Bruges plates cheap, generous Belgian classics like stoofvlees by candlelight, by a hostel near 't Zand.
Try: Stoofvlees and Belgian classics
Tip: A full beer-braised plate stays well under 20 euro. Weeknight walk-ins are usually fine.
Au Vieux Saint Martin in Brussels' Sablon runs a continuous service from noon to midnight, every day. Filet americain prepared at the table.
Try: Filet americain
Restaurant Vincent in Brussels has run on Rue des Dominicains since 1905, with Maurice Grimme's 1912 ceramic murals still on the walls. Priced at €€€.
Signature: Chateaubriand, Flambeed steak
Order: Chateaubriand flambeed at the table, with a side of pommes pailles.
Tip: Open seven days. The narrow row of side tables along the open grill is the seat to ask for at dinner service.
Volle Gas in Brussels' Ixelles is a 1924 Art Deco brasserie on Place Fernand Cocq. Kitchen leans belgian brasserie. At Place Fernand Cocq 21.
Signature: Mussels, Carbonnade flamande
Order: Whichever mussel preparation looks new on the chalkboard, with frites and a Tripel Karmeliet.
Tip: Open seven days, kitchen runs late. The Art Deco interior is the seat; book the corner banquette.
Henri in Brussels' Dansaert is the neo-bistro on Rue de Flandre. Closed Sunday and Monday. Lunch set is the value pick; book ahead for evenings.
Signature: Beef tartare, Cheese souffle
Order: Beef tartare prepared at the table, with the cheese souffle for two.
Tip: Closed Sunday and Monday. Lunch set is the value pick; book ahead for evenings.
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