Au Vieux Saint Martin ★ 4.3
Au Vieux Saint Martin in Brussels' Sablon runs a continuous service from noon to midnight, every day. Filet americain prepared at the table, shrimp croquettes, a long Belgian beer list.
Try: Filet americain
History
The Niels family invented Belgian filet americain in 1968 when Albert Niels took over the Cafe de la Justice on Place du Grand Sablon and renamed it Au Vieux Saint Martin. The technique adapts the French steak tartare with Belgian flavour notes (Dijon mustard, sharper vinegar, a heavier hand with capers), prepared tableside in front of guests. It spread rapidly across Brussels brasseries through the 1970s and remains the canonical lunch order at the Sablon room.
Common allergens: Eggs, Mustard
Make it at home
Ingredients
- 400g best beef fillet, chilled and finely hand-chopped
- 2 shallots, very finely chopped
- 2 tbsp capers, chopped
- 1 tbsp Dijon mustard
- 1 tsp Worcestershire sauce
- 1 tbsp olive oil
- Dash of Tabasco
- 2 egg yolks
- Salt, black pepper
- Frites and crusty bread to serve
Method
- Hand-chop beef with a sharp knife into 3 to 4mm cubes; never use a food processor.
- Combine beef in a chilled bowl with shallots, capers, mustard, Worcestershire, olive oil and Tabasco.
- Mix lightly until the seasonings are evenly distributed; don't overwork.
- Season with salt and pepper to taste. Shape into two mounds on chilled plates.
- Make a small well in the centre of each mound and crack in an egg yolk.
- Serve immediately with frites and crusty bread on the side.
Tip from the editors. The beef must be hand-chopped, not minced. The texture is the difference between Belgian filet americain and any other tartare.
This is the TableJourney editorial recipe, modelled on the canonical bistro / counter version. The first place to try the dish in its city of origin is below.
Where to eat filet americain
Filet americain in Brussels
Restaurant Vincent ★ 4.1
Restaurant Vincent in Brussels has run on Rue des Dominicains since 1905, with Maurice Grimme's 1912 ceramic murals still on the walls. The kitchen still grills red meat over coal in front of guests.
Signature: Chateaubriand, Flambeed steak
Order: Chateaubriand flambeed at the table, with a side of pommes pailles.
Tip: Open seven days. The narrow row of side tables along the open grill is the seat to ask for at dinner service.
Volle Gas ★ 3.9
Volle Gas in Brussels' Ixelles is a 1924 Art Deco brasserie on Place Fernand Cocq. The kitchen runs nearly 30 mussel preparations and a Belgian carte of meatballs and steak.
Signature: Mussels, Carbonnade flamande
Order: Whichever mussel preparation looks new on the chalkboard, with frites and a Tripel Karmeliet.
Tip: Open seven days, kitchen runs late. The Art Deco interior is the seat; book the corner banquette.
Henri ★ 4.2
Henri in Brussels' Dansaert is the neo-bistro on Rue de Flandre. Tight chalkboard menu, focused natural-wine list, beef tartare and cheese souffle as the through-line.
Signature: Beef tartare, Cheese souffle
Order: Beef tartare prepared at the table, with the cheese souffle for two.
Tip: Closed Sunday and Monday. Lunch set is the value pick; book ahead for evenings.
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