Estocaficada is the Nicois stockfish stew, dried cod rehydrated and slow cooked with tomato, olives, garlic, potatoes and herbs, the slow country dish of the Vieux Nice winter table.
Where to eat it: 4 restaurants across 1 city.
Estocaficada (stockfish) came from the Nordic dried cod trade that arrived in Mediterranean ports through the medieval centuries. La Merenda under Dominique Le Stanc cooks the canonical Vieux Nice version, dried cod slowly rehydrated then stewed with tomato, olives, garlic and potatoes. The dish reads as Nicois rather than Provencal because of the heavy olive use and the absence of cream.
Common allergens: Fish
Tip from the editors. The 72 hour soak is non-negotiable; if you rush the rehydration the dish reads as too salty and the fish remains tough.
This is the TableJourney editorial recipe, modelled on the canonical bistro / counter version. The first place to try the dish in its city of origin is below.
Why locals love it: No telephone, cash only, two sittings, books in person at the door earlier the same day for the lunch service in Vieux Nice.
Tip: Arrive in person at 11:00 or 18:00 to write your name on the booking sheet for the same day's service.
Lou Balico on Avenue Saint Jean Baptiste has cooked the Nicois family canon since 1979, the Cuisine Nissarde label across stockfish, homemade ravioli and the sweet chard tart.
Signature: Stockfish, Homemade ravioli, Tarte de blettes
Order: The homemade ravioli with daube sauce and the tarte de blettes for dessert.
Tip: Closed Sunday and Monday evenings. Generous portions; doggie bags accepted.
Why locals love it: Family Nicois room on Rue Droite since the close of the First World War, four generations and a single lunch sitting under the family name.
Tip: Book by phone several days ahead for the lunch service; closed Saturday and Sunday.
Le Safari on Cours Saleya offers the canonical Nicois lunch since 1972, the Cuisine Nissarde label and pissaladiere on the terrace facing the daily market in Vieux Nice.
Try: Pissaladiere terrace plate
More cities are in research. Want estocaficada covered somewhere specific? Tell us where you want to eat.