Esfiha
Photo: Bazel · Public domain

History

Syrian and Lebanese immigration to Sao Paulo concentrated from 1880 around the old market square and Rua 25 de Março, an area known as the street of the Arabs that grew into Brazil's largest wholesale trading district. Arab immigrants opened the city's first esfiha counters in the early 20th century, in neighbourhoods like Bras and Mooca, selling the open, boat-shaped pastry topped with seasoned lamb or beef, and later a closed version folded shut. Casa Garabed, an Armenian family bakery since 1951, and Brasserie Victoria, founded on Rua 25 de Marco in 1947 and now on Avenida JK, are both part of the Levantine bakery wave that made esfiha a Sao Paulo staple.

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Common allergens: Gluten, Tree nuts

Make it at home

Yield Makes about 20 esfihasHands-on 1 hrTotal 2 hr 30 minDifficulty Intermediate

Ingredients

  • 500g all purpose flour
  • 7g active dry yeast
  • 1 teaspoon sugar
  • 1 teaspoon salt
  • 250ml warm water
  • 3 tablespoons olive oil
  • 400g ground lamb or beef
  • 1 onion, grated
  • 2 tomatoes, finely chopped, drained
  • 2 tablespoons pine nuts
  • 1 tablespoon lemon juice
  • 1 teaspoon ground allspice or seven-spice
  • Salt and pepper, to taste

Method

  1. Dissolve the yeast and sugar in the warm water and let stand 10 minutes until foamy.
  2. Mix the flour and salt, add the yeast water and olive oil, and knead 8 minutes to a soft dough. Cover and let rise 1 hour, until doubled.
  3. Mix the lamb, onion, tomato, pine nuts, lemon juice and spices into a loose, juicy filling.
  4. Divide the dough into golf-ball sized pieces and roll each into a thin disc.
  5. Spoon filling into the centre, then fold up three sides to make a triangle, leaving the middle open so the meat shows through.
  6. Bake at 220C for 10 to 12 minutes, until the dough is golden and the meat is cooked through.

Tip from the editors. Keep the filling loose and juicy rather than packed dry; esfiha bakes fast and a dry filling turns tough.

Where to eat esfiha

Esfiha in São Paulo

Casa Garabed ★ 4.2

$ ArmenianSantana

Casa Garabed sells its wood-fired Armenian esfihas by the piece in Sao Paulo's Santana district, cheap counter food since the shop opened in 1951.

TryEsfiha de cordeiro com pignole (lamb and pine nut esfiha)

Directions

Almanara ★ 4.1

$$ LebaneseRepublica

Almanara has served Lebanese staples near Praça da República since 1950, the chain's flagship for sfihas, falafel and kibe in Sao Paulo, Brazil.

OrderClosed sfihas (sfihas fechadas) of beef or vegetables

TipThe Basilio da Gama house is the original; Almanara now also runs branches inside several Sao Paulo shopping malls.

Directions

Brasserie Victória ★ 4.4

$ LebaneseItaim Bibi

Brasserie Victória has served Lebanese food since Dona Victoria opened it on Rua 25 de Marco in 1947; now on Avenida JK in Sao Paulo, it is still family-run.

OrderThe kaftas, open or folded sfihas, kibe, labneh with pitta, and the nut-filled atayef pancakes.

TipFor a quick bite, the take-away counter runs until 21:00 Tuesday to Sunday; the nut-filled atayef make the best finish in the dining room.

Directions

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