Confiteria La Argentina ★ 4.3
Caballito panaderia opened 1907, one of the oldest active bakeries in the city. Pasta frola, palmeritas, alfajores de maicena and a full factura counter.
Worth the queue: Pasta frola and palmeritas
History
Legend places dulce de leche in 1829 at a truce meeting between Juan Manuel de Rosas and Juan Lavalle in Caňuelas; a servant left milk and sugar on the stove and returned to caramelised gold. The story is unverified and similar preparations existed in France and Indonesia; Uruguay also claims invention. Estancia La Salamandra and La Serenisima industrialised it in the 20th century.
Common allergens: Dairy
Make it at home
Ingredients
- 2 litres whole milk
- 500g sugar
- 1 teaspoon vanilla extract
- 1/2 teaspoon baking soda dissolved in 1 tablespoon water
Method
- Combine milk and sugar in a wide, heavy-bottomed pot. Place over medium heat, stirring until sugar dissolves.
- Bring to a gentle simmer (do not boil). Stir in the baking soda solution; the mixture will foam briefly. Reduce heat to low.
- Cook uncovered, stirring every 10 minutes at first then more often as it thickens. The mixture will reduce, deepen in colour and grow glossy.
- After 3-3.5 hours of slow cooking, when the dulce coats the back of a spoon and is the colour of dark caramel, stir in vanilla and remove from heat.
- Cool to room temperature, then transfer to clean jars. Refrigerate; keeps 3 months.
Tip from the editors. If it looks split, blend briefly with a hand blender to bring it back together. Stop cooking sooner for a pourable repostero; longer for a thick spread.
This is the TableJourney editorial recipe, modelled on the canonical bistro / counter version. The first place to try the dish in its city of origin is below.
Where to eat dulce de leche
Dulce de Leche in Buenos Aires
Las Violetas ★ 4.5
Voted best Cafe Notable in Buenos Aires, opened 21 September 1884 at Rivadavia and Medrano. Belle-epoque stained glass, Italian marble, legendary merienda.
Signature drink: Merienda (tea, medialunas, tea sandwiches)
Havanna (flagship) ★ 4.0
Argentina's most recognised alfajor brand, founded 1948 in Mar del Plata. Now in every airport; the Florida pedestrian-street store is the busiest outpost.
Worth the queue: Alfajor de chocolate con dulce de leche
Cocu Boulangerie ★ 4.5
Three French entrepreneurs' Palermo Soho boulangerie, widely cited as the city's best croissant. Baguette, pain au levain, pastries; small cafe corner.
Worth the queue: Butter croissant
More cities are in research. Want dulce de leche covered somewhere specific? Tell us where you want to eat.