History

Andouillette has its own French association of defenders, the AAAAA (Association Amicale des Amateurs d'Andouillette Authentique), and the Lyon version uses a coarser cut and stronger Beaujolais marination than the Troyes version. The Bobosse atelier in Pelussin (Loire), 60 km south of Lyon, is the most celebrated supplier; the city's bouchons buy direct. The dish is a Label Bouchons Lyonnais certified classic.

Common allergens: Pork

Make it at home

Yield 4Hands-on 30 minTotal 45 minDifficulty Easy

Ingredients

  • 4 good Andouillette AAAAA-certified sausages (around 180g each), available at French butchers
  • 30g unsalted butter
  • 2 tablespoons sunflower oil
  • 2 shallots, finely diced
  • 200ml dry white wine (Macon or Beaujolais Blanc)
  • 2 tablespoons Dijon mustard (whole-grain Pommery is excellent)
  • 200ml double cream
  • 1 tablespoon finely chopped flat-leaf parsley
  • Salt and freshly ground black pepper
  • 800g floury potatoes, peeled and quartered, plus 60g butter and 100ml warm milk for the mash
  • 1 jar Dijon mustard for the table

Method

  1. Boil the potatoes 18 minutes until tender, drain and mash with the 60g butter and warm milk. Season and keep warm.
  2. Prick the andouillette sausages all over with a fork to prevent bursting.
  3. Melt the butter and oil in a heavy frying pan over medium heat. Place the andouillettes in and cook 5 minutes per side until golden brown.
  4. Reduce the heat. Lift the sausages onto a warm plate. Add the shallots to the pan and cook 4 minutes until soft.
  5. Pour in the white wine and let it reduce by half, scraping the base.
  6. Whisk in the mustard, then the cream. Simmer 3 minutes until the sauce coats the back of a spoon.
  7. Slice the andouillettes in half lengthways. Plate with a mound of mash, the andouillette halves alongside, and the mustard cream sauce ladled over.
  8. Scatter parsley and serve with a small jar of extra mustard at the table.

Tip from the editors. Look for the AAAAA stamp on the casing; it guarantees real chitterling content. Without it you may be getting industrial andouillette.

Where to eat andouillette lyonnaise

Andouillette lyonnaise in Lyon

Cafe-Comptoir Abel ★ 4.4

Lyonnais Bouchon€€2e

Cafe-Comptoir Abel in Lyon's 2e is the 1928 bouchon on Rue Guynemer where the wood-panelled dining room and Label Bouchons Lyonnais menu survive unchanged.

Signature: Salade lyonnaise, Tablier de sapeur

Order: Salade lyonnaise with a poached egg, then the chicken vinaigrette.

Tip: Closed Sunday; cash and card. The pichet of cotes-du-rhone is the order.

25 Rue Guynemer, 69002 Lyon Book →

Chez Hugon ★ 4.4

Lyonnais Bouchon€€1er

Chez Hugon on Rue Pizay in the 1er has been run by three generations of women since 1937, serving an unchanged carte of bouchon classics in a 30-cover.

Signature: Poulet au vinaigre, Andouillette Bobosse

Order: Poulet au vinaigre, then the andouillette Bobosse with mustard sauce.

Tip: Closed Saturday-Sunday; Mon-Fri 12:00-14:00 and 19:00-23:30.

12 Rue Pizay, 69001 Lyon

Le Bouchon des Filles ★ 4.4

Lyonnais Bouchon€€1er

Le Bouchon des Filles in Lyon's 1er is the all-woman-run bouchon on Rue Sergent Blandan, where a fixed-price set lunch runs the dining room and the kitchen.

Signature: Saucisson chaud, Cervelle de canut

Order: The set menu with saucisson chaud and cervelle de canut for dessert.

Tip: Open evenings only Wed-Sat plus Sunday lunch; book a fortnight ahead.

20 Rue Sergent Blandan, 69001 Lyon Book →

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