Andouillette lyonnaise
Photo: Sebleouf · CC BY-SA 4.0

History

Larousse gastronomique, quoted by French Wikipedia, says the andouillette lyonnaise is made of veal fraise, sometimes with a little pork stomach; it is much milder than the pure-pork version of Troyes, which is now the most widespread. The Association amicale des amateurs d'andouillettes authentiques, the 5A, created in the early 1960s, awards the AAAAA diploma. Bobosse, a firm of Saint-Jean-d'Ardières in the Beaujolais, was the first major producer to announce a return to calf-fraise andouillettes, a promise kept at the end of August 2015.

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Common allergens: Pork

Make it at home

Yield 4Hands-on 30 minTotal 45 minDifficulty Easy

Ingredients

  • 4 good andouillette sausages (around 180g each), from a French butcher
  • 30g unsalted butter
  • 2 tablespoons sunflower oil
  • 2 shallots, finely diced
  • 200ml dry white wine (Macon or Beaujolais Blanc)
  • 2 tablespoons Dijon mustard (whole-grain Pommery is excellent)
  • 200ml double cream
  • 1 tablespoon finely chopped flat-leaf parsley
  • Salt and freshly ground black pepper
  • 800g floury potatoes, peeled and quartered, plus 60g butter and 100ml warm milk for the mash
  • 1 jar Dijon mustard for the table

Method

  1. Boil the potatoes 18 minutes until tender, drain and mash with the 60g butter and warm milk. Season and keep warm.
  2. Prick the andouillette sausages all over with a fork to prevent bursting.
  3. Melt the butter and oil in a heavy frying pan over medium heat. Place the andouillettes in and cook 5 minutes per side until golden brown.
  4. Reduce the heat. Lift the sausages onto a warm plate. Add the shallots to the pan and cook 4 minutes until soft.
  5. Pour in the white wine and let it reduce by half, scraping the base.
  6. Whisk in the mustard, then the cream. Simmer 3 minutes until the sauce coats the back of a spoon.
  7. Slice the andouillettes in half lengthways. Plate with a mound of mash, the andouillette halves alongside, and the mustard cream sauce ladled over.
  8. Scatter parsley and serve with a small jar of extra mustard at the table.

Tip from the editors. The AAAAA diploma of the 5A association marks andouillettes judged authentic; ask the butcher whether the sausage is veal fraise or pork.

Where to eat andouillette lyonnaise

Andouillette lyonnaise in Lyon

Le Merciere ★ 4.3

€€ Lyonnais Bouchon2E

Le Mercière at 56 Rue Mercière has bouchon classics on its menu: saucisson brioché, tablier de sapeur, escargots and blanquette de veau grand-mère.

OrderThe blanquette de veau grand-mère or the escargots, both on the menu.

TipChoose between the convivial ground floor, the muted upstairs room, an air-conditioned room or the heated traboule.

Le Musee ★ 4.3

€ Lyonnais Bouchon2E

Le Musee is a Lyonnais bouchon at 2 Rue des Forces where chef Quentin Delbassee, after a decade in its kitchen, now carries on the tradition.

OrderTablier de sapeur, quenelle de brochet and saucisson brioché, the dishes the house names on its menu.

TipClosed on Sunday and Monday; the bouchon is often full, so book ahead.

Le Bouchon des Filles ★ 4.4

Lyonnais Bouchon1Er

Le Bouchon des Filles is a simple, convivial place with home-made cooking, opened by Isabelle and Laura at 20 Rue Sergent Blandan, 69001 Lyon.

OrderThe homemade red mullet quenelle with shellfish sauce and rice.

TipThursday lunch is a single menu at 25€, with a parade of salad bowls, a dish of the day and a dessert.

Le Garet ★ 4.5

€€ Lyonnaise1Er

Le Garet, at 7 Rue du Garet in Lyon, is a veritable institution among aficionados of Lyonnais cuisine, serving calf’s head, tripe and dumplings.

OrderCalf’s head, tripe, dumplings or andouillette sausages.

TipService runs from 12:00 to 15:00 and from 19:30 to 23:00, Monday to Friday, and the restaurant is closed on Saturday and Sunday.

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