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SichuanWangjing 798
Lanren Yeyu in the Yihaodi Art Park on Shunbai Road in Beijing cooks fiery Sichuan dishes, led by boiled fish in chilli oil and a half-soup bullfrog.
OrderThe boiled fish in chilli oil over bean sprouts, and the half-soup bullfrog.
TipIt sits inside Zone D of the Yihaodi Art Park and has its own parking; lunch runs to 16:00 and dinner starts at 17:30.
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YunnanWangjing 798
Dian Dachi in the Wangjing Chengying Center in Beijing is a Yunnan restaurant fitted out like an ethnic village, with steam stone-pot fish as its signature.
OrderThe steam stone-pot fish, the signature dish that gives the restaurant its subtitle.
TipBamboo-woven lamps and straw hats dress the room like a Yunnan minority village; it is on the second floor, Room 201, of Building 4.
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Northern ChineseShichahai Houhai
Ding Xiang Run on Deshengmen Inner Street in Beijing serves Beijing home cooking, from sweet and sour pork to lanlong meat rolls and pork knuckle.
OrderLanlong meat rolls, pork knuckle, sweet and sour pork and Qianlong cabbage.
TipThe Xicheng guide recommends sweet and sour pork, lanlong, pork knuckle and Qianlong cabbage; Ctrip lists a waiting area, free parking and open-air seats.
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CantoneseDongzhimen Guijie
Bao Bao Hao on Chaoyangmen North Street in Beijing has served sizzling Cantonese claypot dishes since 2000, in a room styled after Guangzhou's old Xiguan.
OrderOrder the sand ginger chicken from the claypot, and the Cantonese cured sausage claypot rice.
TipClaypot dishes are seared to order over fierce heat for smoky wok hei, and the room is jam-packed at mealtimes, so reserve ahead.
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HunanHaidian
Xiang Bin Xuan on Huayuan Road in Beijing cooks authentic Hunan food, known for its chopped-chilli fish head and Yongzhou-style fried duck, plus stinky tofu.
OrderThe chopped-chilli fish head, Yongzhou-style fried duck and the stinky tofu.
TipExpect a queue at mealtimes, so arrive early or reserve by phone; the Michelin Guide also lists stinky tofu and mugwort dumplings as snacks.
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Northern ChineseWangjing 798
Jing Hua Lou on Datun North Road in Beijing revives Qing-era banquet-house dishes, such as crispy duo and smoked pork head, in a second-floor dining room.
OrderOrder the crispy duo blanched in oil, sliced smoked pork head, and rose puff pastry to finish.
TipDiners are escorted from a retro entrance to a lofty dining room on level 2; Ctrip lists a waiting area and large tables for 10 or more.