Modern French€€€€ixelles
Le Chalet de la Foret in Brussels sits on the edge of the Sonian Forest in Uccle. Pascal Devalkeneer has held two Michelin stars here since the early 2010s; the garden terrace runs spring to autumn.
Signature: Flame-cooked Breton scallops, Aveyron lamb with garden herbs
Order: The flame-cooked scallops from Brittany and whatever lamb course is on the seasonal menu.
Tip: Closed Saturday lunch and Sunday. Relais and Chateaux property: book a fortnight ahead and ask for the conservatory tables.
Modern Belgian€€€anderlecht
La Paix in Brussels has run since 1892 in a neo-classical building opposite the Anderlecht abattoir. David Martin took over the kitchen in 2004 and holds two Michelin stars with a Japanese-Belgian style.
Signature: Slow-cooked Belgian beef, Seasonal grill plate
Order: Whatever the menu calls the day's slow-cooked beef course; the kitchen is butcher's-row by lineage.
Tip: Closed Saturday and Sunday. Lunch only on Friday; the dining room runs Japanese-minimalist with origami above the tables.
Belgian brasserie€€€sablon
Au Vieux Saint Martin in Brussels has held the corner of Place du Grand Sablon since 1968. The Niels family invented Belgian filet americain here; the brasserie still serves it from the open kitchen.
Signature: Filet americain, Shrimp croquettes
Order: Filet americain prepared at the table, and shrimp croquettes to start.
Tip: Open every day from noon to midnight. The terrace looks straight at the Sablon church; book ahead for Sunday lunch.
Belgian brasserie€€sainte-catherine
Chez Leon in Brussels has run on Rue des Bouchers since 1893, when Leon Vanlancker opened five tables. Five generations later the family still serves moules-frites from the same kitchen.
Signature: Moules-frites, Carbonnade flamande
Order: Moules marinieres with frites, and a glass of gueuze from the beer list.
Tip: Open every day from noon to 23:00. Ask for the original 1893 dining room over the recent expansions on either side.
Belgian brasserie€€€sainte-catherine
Aux Armes de Bruxelles on Rue des Bouchers has been running since 1921, with Calixte Veulemans opening as a brasserie. Rudy Vanlancker of Chez Leon bought the house in 2018.
Signature: Waterzooi de poulet, Moules-frites
Order: Chicken waterzooi in the broth, with a Trappist beer or a glass of Sancerre.
Tip: Open Tuesday to Sunday from noon to 22:30, closed Monday. The salon at the back is quieter than the front dining room.
Belgian estaminet€€dansaert
In 't Spinnekopke in Brussels is an 18th-century estaminet on Place du Jardin aux Fleurs. The kitchen cooks Brussels-specific dishes, with lambic beer used as a sauce ingredient and a deep cellar list.
Signature: Rabbit in gueuze, Eels in green sauce
Order: Rabbit braised in gueuze, with bloempanch on the side and a Cantillon Geuze to drink.
Tip: Closed Sunday. The wooden banquettes are 1762 vintage; the cellar lambic list runs 30 bottles deep.
