Phở Cuốn Hương Mai is a street-food stop in Ba Dinh, Hanoi.
Pho Cuon Huong Mai runs the Ngu Xa pho cuon strip in Hanoi, wrapping fresh rice-noodle sheets around stir-fried beef and herbs at a tiny Truc Bach counter.
Must order: Pho cuon rolled rice noodles with beef and herbs, plus pho chien phong puffed pho on the side.
Tip: The whole Ngu Xa block runs the same dish; if Huong Mai is full, walk three doors down and try the next counter.
Address: 25-27 Ngu Xa, Truc Bach, Ba Dinh, Hanoi
Tuyet Bun Cha 34 in Hanoi holds a Michelin Bib Gourmand for lanceleaf-blumea pork patties charcoal-grilled at six pavement tables on Hang Than.
Try: Bun cha
Order: Bun cha mix: a serving of pork patty and pork belly, soft rice vermicelli and a tangy nuoc cham.
Tip: Lunch service 11:00-15:00 only. Cash only and the queue spills onto the pavement after 12:00.
Pho Gia Truyen Bat Dan in Hanoi is the Old Quarter's queuing Michelin Bib Gourmand pho counter on Bat Dan, family-run for five decades and self-service.
Try: Pho bo
Order: Pho tai nam: rare beef and flank steak, with a side of quay fried dough.
Tip: Order, pay and collect at the counter. Closes between 10:00 and 18:00 daily; arrive 06:30 to beat the breakfast queue.
Bun Cha Huong Lien in Hanoi has poured charcoal-grilled bun cha on Le Van Huu since the 1990s; Obama and Bourdain shared a meal here in 2016.
Try: Bun cha
Order: Combo Obama: a bowl of bun cha with grilled pork patties, a seafood spring roll and a Hanoi beer.
Tip: The Obama-Bourdain table is preserved in glass on the second floor. Cash and card both accepted.
Tuyet Bun Cha 34 in Hanoi holds a Michelin Bib Gourmand for lanceleaf-blumea pork patties charcoal-grilled at six pavement tables on Hang Than.
Try: Bun cha
Order: Bun cha mix: a serving of pork patty and pork belly, soft rice vermicelli and a tangy nuoc cham.
Tip: Lunch service 11:00-15:00 only. Cash only and the queue spills onto the pavement after 12:00.
Banh Mi 25 in Hanoi is the Old Quarter's most-photographed banh mi stall, baking baguettes daily and assembling sandwiches across three counters on Hang Ca.
Try: Banh mi
Order: Banh mi xa xiu with Chinese-style pork and pate; vegetarian comes loaded with mushrooms.
Tip: Three counters at 25, 30 and 32 Hang Ca. Cash or card; sandwiches 30,000-40,000 VND.
Xoi Yen in Hanoi serves Hoan Kiem's favourite breakfast sticky rice from a corner shophouse on Nguyen Huu Huan, with caramel pork, pate and Chinese sausage.
Try: Xoi xeo sticky rice
Order: Xoi xeo with turmeric sticky rice, mung bean, fried shallots and a topping of caramel pork.
Tip: Ground floor for the open kitchen; upstairs to sit. Bowls 20,000-50,000 VND; open from 05:00 for breakfast.
Banh Cuon Gia Truyen in Hanoi has steamed silky rice rolls over a cloth-stretched cauldron on Hang Ga since 1973, with pork and wood-ear mushroom filling.
Try: Banh cuon
Order: Banh cuon with pork and wood-ear mushroom filling, with a slice of cha que cinnamon pork sausage on the side.
Tip: Breakfast and lunch only; closed by mid-afternoon. The rolls are made to order at the front of the shop.
