Chả Cá Thăng Long is a street-food stop in Old Quarter, Hanoi.
Cha Ca Thang Long in Hanoi is the Michelin Bib Gourmand cha ca specialist on Duong Thanh, with turmeric catfish finished tableside in dill and onions.
Must order: Cha ca for two: turmeric catfish, dill, spring onions, peanuts and the house mam tom dip.
Tip: One dish only; price per person is fixed at 250,000 VND. The Duong Thanh strip has the same family running multiple addresses.
Address: 21 Duong Thanh, Cua Dong, Hoan Kiem, Hanoi
Pho Gia Truyen Bat Dan in Hanoi is the Old Quarter's queuing Michelin Bib Gourmand pho counter on Bat Dan, family-run for five decades and self-service.
Try: Pho bo
Order: Pho tai nam: rare beef and flank steak, with a side of quay fried dough.
Tip: Order, pay and collect at the counter. Closes between 10:00 and 18:00 daily; arrive 06:30 to beat the breakfast queue.
Banh Mi 25 in Hanoi is the Old Quarter's most-photographed banh mi stall, baking baguettes daily and assembling sandwiches across three counters on Hang Ca.
Try: Banh mi
Order: Banh mi xa xiu with Chinese-style pork and pate; vegetarian comes loaded with mushrooms.
Tip: Three counters at 25, 30 and 32 Hang Ca. Cash or card; sandwiches 30,000-40,000 VND.
Xoi Yen in Hanoi serves Hoan Kiem's favourite breakfast sticky rice from a corner shophouse on Nguyen Huu Huan, with caramel pork, pate and Chinese sausage.
Try: Xoi xeo sticky rice
Order: Xoi xeo with turmeric sticky rice, mung bean, fried shallots and a topping of caramel pork.
Tip: Ground floor for the open kitchen; upstairs to sit. Bowls 20,000-50,000 VND; open from 05:00 for breakfast.
Pho Cuon Huong Mai runs the Ngu Xa pho cuon strip in Hanoi, wrapping fresh rice-noodle sheets around stir-fried beef and herbs at a tiny Truc Bach counter.
Try: Pho cuon rolled rice noodles
Order: Pho cuon rolled rice noodles with beef and herbs, plus pho chien phong puffed pho on the side.
Tip: The whole Ngu Xa block runs the same dish; if Huong Mai is full, walk three doors down and try the next counter.
Pho Gia Truyen Bat Dan in Hanoi is the Old Quarter's queuing Michelin Bib Gourmand pho counter on Bat Dan, family-run for five decades and self-service.
Try: Pho bo
Order: Pho tai nam: rare beef and flank steak, with a side of quay fried dough.
Tip: Order, pay and collect at the counter. Closes between 10:00 and 18:00 daily; arrive 06:30 to beat the breakfast queue.
Bun Cha Huong Lien in Hanoi has poured charcoal-grilled bun cha on Le Van Huu since the 1990s; Obama and Bourdain shared a meal here in 2016.
Try: Bun cha
Order: Combo Obama: a bowl of bun cha with grilled pork patties, a seafood spring roll and a Hanoi beer.
Tip: The Obama-Bourdain table is preserved in glass on the second floor. Cash and card both accepted.
Tuyet Bun Cha 34 in Hanoi holds a Michelin Bib Gourmand for lanceleaf-blumea pork patties charcoal-grilled at six pavement tables on Hang Than.
Try: Bun cha
Order: Bun cha mix: a serving of pork patty and pork belly, soft rice vermicelli and a tangy nuoc cham.
Tip: Lunch service 11:00-15:00 only. Cash only and the queue spills onto the pavement after 12:00.
Banh Mi 25 in Hanoi is the Old Quarter's most-photographed banh mi stall, baking baguettes daily and assembling sandwiches across three counters on Hang Ca.
Try: Banh mi
Order: Banh mi xa xiu with Chinese-style pork and pate; vegetarian comes loaded with mushrooms.
Tip: Three counters at 25, 30 and 32 Hang Ca. Cash or card; sandwiches 30,000-40,000 VND.
Xoi Yen in Hanoi serves Hoan Kiem's favourite breakfast sticky rice from a corner shophouse on Nguyen Huu Huan, with caramel pork, pate and Chinese sausage.
Try: Xoi xeo sticky rice
Order: Xoi xeo with turmeric sticky rice, mung bean, fried shallots and a topping of caramel pork.
Tip: Ground floor for the open kitchen; upstairs to sit. Bowls 20,000-50,000 VND; open from 05:00 for breakfast.
