Cioppino is a tomato-and-wine seafood stew of Dungeness crab, clams, mussels, prawns and white fish, invented by Genoese fishermen in San Francisco's North Beach.
Cioppino was born in San Francisco. It dates to the 1890s, when Ligurian fishermen working out of Fisherman's Wharf would 'chip in' a piece of the day's catch to a communal pot, simmered with tomato, garlic, fennel and white wine. The name comes from the Genoese ciuppin, a fish stew of the home country. Bazzurro's, an early Italian room on Fisherman's Wharf, served it from the late 1800s, and Sotto Mare on Green Street keeps the standard now. The dish is Dungeness-led between November and June; outside the season, kitchens substitute King crab. Eat it with the bib, the fingers and a torn loaf of Acme sourdough.
Tadich Grill in San Francisco is California's oldest continuously running restaurant, opened in 1849 in the Financial District, still grilling over mesquite.
OrderSand dabs grilled over mesquite, or the Hangtown Fry at lunch.
TipNo reservations except for parties of six or more; lunch counter seats turn over fastest.
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