Cioppino
Photo: Kelly Sue DeConnick · CC BY-SA 2.0

History

Cioppino grew out of Italian immigrant fishing communities on the California coast, a pot built from whatever the boats brought in, thickened with tomato and wine. Monterey Bay's Sicilian fleet made it a peninsula dish as much as a San Francisco one, and it never left the local table. In Carmel it spans the price scale: the house pride at Dametra Cafe on Ocean Avenue, and a scallop-loaded version at Nora's comfort-food dining room on San Carlos Street.

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Common allergens: Shellfish, Fish

Make it at home

Yield Serves 4Hands-on 45 minTotal 1 hr 15 minDifficulty Intermediate

Ingredients

  • 3 tbsp olive oil
  • 1 onion, diced
  • 1 fennel bulb, diced
  • 4 cloves garlic, sliced
  • 1 tsp chilli flakes
  • 2 tbsp tomato paste
  • 250ml dry white wine
  • 800g tinned crushed tomatoes
  • 500ml fish or shellfish stock
  • 500g firm white fish, cubed
  • 500g clams or mussels, scrubbed
  • 300g prawns, shell on
  • Cooked Dungeness crab legs if available
  • Parsley, lemon, grilled sourdough to serve

Method

  1. Sweat the onion and fennel in the oil for 8 minutes, then add garlic, chilli and tomato paste and cook 2 minutes more.
  2. Pour in the wine and reduce by half.
  3. Add tomatoes and stock and simmer 20 minutes to build the base.
  4. Add the clams or mussels, cover and cook 4 minutes until they begin to open.
  5. Slide in the fish, prawns and crab and simmer gently 5 minutes until just cooked.
  6. Season, shower with parsley and lemon, and serve with grilled sourdough for the broth.

Tip from the editors. Build the tomato base ahead if you like, but cook the seafood only at service; each species needs its own few minutes, added in order.

Where to eat cioppino

Cioppino in Carmel-by-the-Sea

Dametra Cafe ★ 4.5

$$ MediterraneanOcean Avenue

Dametra Cafe fills its Ocean Avenue corner in Carmel every night, serving Mediterranean plates and cioppino while musicians work the dining room.

OrderThe cioppino; the house treats it as its proudest plate.

TipOwners Faisal Nimri and Bashar Sneeh built the room around music; expect singing between courses and queues on weekend evenings.

Nora's ★ 4.2

$$ New AmericanSan Carlos Street

Nora's gives Carmel a sit-down dinner under $20 a head, the Nimri family pricing shareables from $7 and handhelds at $15-18 on San Carlos Street.

TryHandhelds $15-18, shareables from $7

TipShareables run $7-22 and handhelds $15-18, which makes this one of the village's rare relaxed-budget dinner reservations.

All Carmel-by-the-Sea signature dishes →

Cioppino in San Francisco

Sotto Mare ★ 4.5

$$$ Italian SeafoodNorth Beach

Sotto Mare in San Francisco is the North Beach Italian seafood room that does the city's best cioppino, a 12-table room that takes a few reservations.

OrderThe cioppino for two; the kitchen's whole reputation in one bowl.

TipWear an apron, no exceptions; the cioppino is not negotiable on splatter.

Tadich Grill ★ 4.3

$$$ AmericanEmbarcadero

Tadich Grill in San Francisco is California's oldest continuously running restaurant, opened in 1849 in the Financial District, still grilling over mesquite.

OrderSand dabs grilled over mesquite, or the Hangtown Fry at lunch.

TipNo reservations except for parties of six or more; lunch counter seats turn over fastest.

Anchor Oyster Bar ★ 4.5

$$$ SeafoodCastro Noe Valley

Anchor Oyster Bar in San Francisco is a 22-seat Castro counter that has served Dungeness, cioppino and clam chowder the same way since 1977.

OrderThe cioppino in season, with a side of garlic bread.

TipNo bookings; arrive at 16:30 for the early seating or after 21:00 when the line thins.

Scoma's ★ 4.3

$$$ Italian SeafoodNorth Beach

Scoma's in San Francisco is the 1965 Pier 47 seafood room at Fisherman's Wharf, with the Lazy Man's cioppino served from a 60-year-old family recipe.

OrderLazy Man's cioppino, with the shells pre-cracked by the kitchen.

TipReservations open 30 days out; the bar takes walk-ins from 12:00 and is the best seat for a single diner.

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