Cioppino is a tomato-and-wine seafood stew of Dungeness crab, clams, mussels, prawns and white fish, invented by Genoese fishermen in San Francisco's North Beach.
Where to eat it: 4 restaurants across 1 city.
Cioppino was born in San Francisco. It dates to the 1890s, when Ligurian fishermen working out of Fisherman's Wharf would 'chip in' a piece of the day's catch to a communal pot, simmered with tomato, garlic, fennel and white wine. The name comes from the Genoese ciuppin, a fish stew of the home country. Bazzurro's, an early Italian room on Fisherman's Wharf, served it from the late 1800s, and Sotto Mare on Green Street keeps the standard now. The dish is Dungeness-led between November and June; outside the season, kitchens substitute King crab. Eat it with the bib, the fingers and a torn loaf of Acme sourdough.
Common allergens: Shellfish, Fish, Sulphites
Tip from the editors. Buy the crab live or hot off the steamer the morning of cooking; freezer crab dilutes the broth.
This is the TableJourney editorial recipe, modelled on the canonical bistro / counter version. The first place to try the dish in its city of origin is below.
Sotto Mare in San Francisco is the North Beach Italian seafood room that does the city's best cioppino, a 12-table room that takes a few reservations.
Signature: Cioppino for two, Linguine vongole, Sand dabs
Order: The cioppino for two; the kitchen's whole reputation in one bowl.
Tip: Wear an apron, no exceptions; the cioppino is not negotiable on splatter.
Tadich Grill in San Francisco is California's oldest continuously running restaurant, opened in 1849 in the Financial District, still grilling over mesquite.
Signature: Cioppino, Hangtown Fry, Sand dabs
Order: Sand dabs grilled over mesquite, or the Hangtown Fry at lunch.
Tip: No reservations except for parties of six or more; lunch counter seats turn over fastest.
Anchor Oyster Bar in San Francisco is a 22-seat Castro counter that has served Dungeness, cioppino and clam chowder the same way since 1977.
Signature: Cioppino, Clam chowder, Cracked Dungeness
Order: The cioppino in season, with a side of garlic bread.
Tip: No bookings; arrive at 16:30 for the early seating or after 21:00 when the line thins.
Scoma's in San Francisco is the 1965 Pier 47 seafood room at Fisherman's Wharf, with the Lazy Man's cioppino served from a 60-year-old family recipe.
Signature: Lazy Man's cioppino, Dungeness crab cocktail, Whole grilled petrale sole
Order: Lazy Man's cioppino, with the shells pre-cracked by the kitchen.
Tip: Reservations open 30 days out; the bar takes walk-ins from 12:00 and is the best seat for a single diner.
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