Italian, tasting menu$$$$queen-village
Ambra in Philadelphia is Chris D'Ambro and Marina de Oliveira's 16-seat Italian tasting menu on South 4th in Queen Village, the city's most personal multi-course room.
Signature: Tasting menu pasta, Counter-side antipasti
Order: The full nine-course tasting; the four-seat kitchen counter rather than the main table when available.
Tip: Book at exactly 30 days out at 10am on the venue's site. Saturday seatings fill in the first 90 seconds.
Vietnamese$$washington-avenue
Nam Phuong in Philadelphia is the 20-year Vietnamese banquet hall on Washington Avenue, with a 200-item menu running pho, clay pots, banh xeo and bun rieu.
Signature: Pho dac biet, Banh xeo
Order: Pho dac biet (the everything bowl); banh xeo crepe; sugarcane shrimp paste with rice paper rolls.
Tip: The clay-pot section at the back of the menu is the room's quiet best. Order the catfish or the chicken with ginger.
Southeast Asian$$fishtown
Stock in Philadelphia is Tyler Akin's 18-seat Fishtown BYOB on Girard, a Southeast Asian counter with a pho stock that simmers 14 hours and a rotating khao soi.
Signature: Beef pho, Khao soi
Order: Beef pho with the side plate of herbs; khao soi if it appears; a roast pork banh mi at lunch.
Tip: BYOB. Bring a crisp Riesling or a Vietnamese-style lager. Cash and cards both work.
Neapolitan pizza$$center-city
Pizzeria Vetri in Philadelphia is Marc Vetri's Neapolitan pizza room on Chancellor near Rittenhouse, with a wood-fired oven from Naples and the rotolo that travelled the country.
Signature: Margherita, Rotolo
Order: Margherita with buffalo mozzarella; the rotolo (rolled mortadella, ricotta and pistachio).
Tip: Walk in at 17:30 on a weeknight. The main rush starts at 18:30.
Israeli, all-day cafe$$center-city
K'Far in Philadelphia is Michael Solomonov and Steve Cook's all-day Israeli bakery and cafe at 19th near Rittenhouse, the morning room before the Zahav night.
Signature: Borekas, Shakshuka
Order: A bourekas filled with feta and za'atar; shakshuka at brunch; the babka to take home.
Tip: Walk in for the bakery counter at 08:00 before the work crowd lands at 09:30. The pastries sell out by 11.
American barbecue$$south-philly
Mike's BBQ in Philadelphia is the South Philly barbecue counter on 11th Street since 2018, founded by Mike Strauss and now run by Daniel Grobman, with whole-hog brisket and ribs.
Signature: Brisket, Pork ribs
Order: A sliced brisket plate; pork ribs; the burnt-end sliders if they are running.
Tip: Closed Mondays. Open Thursday to Sunday; the brisket sells out by 14:00 on a Sunday.